Hello all,

got a really good deal on a 2000 R6...dude i bought it from did have it down...from the looks of it, he had a slider on the right side and when he hit, the mounting bolt for the slider must've took a chunk out of the mount. The frame-to-motor mount bolt will not grab any threads, as it is now "too short" due to the missing portion of motor mount. However, there is still about a 1/2"~3/4" amount of "threaded hole" left in the mount. I bought a longer socket head cap screw and the thing grabs in there nice.

my question is, what are my options for fixing this? I will most likely get a cage...is re-welding, drilling and tapping the mount essential for this, or can i get away with just using a longer bolt as mentioned before? would running without that bolt in there make a noticable difference? i will also entertain any "down-and-dirty", aka "ghetto fixes" for this, as it is a stunter. thanks.

any help is appreciated.

-nate

 

I'm sure someone on here has been faced with the same problem....did a search, but found mostly stories of stripped engine mounting holes, rather than having partially broken/missen mounting holes....

help!

 

alright...i guess i'll just see how she runs once it's nice enough here to ride (MN blows) and see if there are any crazy vibrations....called around and for a shop to weld/fill, drill, and tap, it's like $100~$150 bucks. So I might just "do it right".

 

that would be the best bet.

 

ok i came across this same problem on my 929 and my friends f4-i. both problems was cause by the engine cage ripping out half of the stock motor mount threads. we fixed both bikes with a heli-coil. both bikes work fine and i stunt mine pretty much everytime i ride it. both bikes are daily ridden (nice weather here in hawaii) and neither one of them have any problems with the mount. you should be able to find the heli-coil kits at any car repair shop for about $20.

 

yep use a heli coil before you start messing with welding. if you mount does end up breaking, then get it welded.