Alright guys Im starting to design a cage for my F4i since it will be a lot cheaper than buying one.

So far the idea is to have a loop much like FI's but run straight up and down (not tilted towards the back) then have another bar run from the slider to a plate that attaches to the lower subframe bolt. Then have a cross member from about half way down the loop to about half way down the other bar. which will make a triangle kinda deal. The slider will be mounted to a plate that bolts to the motor mount but the plate will position the Slider right infront of the weld on the side of the frame.

I need to kno whats the best material to use for a cage I dont want this cage to weigh more than needed. Im using 7/8" OD PVC piping for the mock up would that be a good for the real cage? what wall thickness should I use?

Any pics of home made cages or tips on making one would be greatly appreciated. Im lookin for this cage to be fairly simple and low profile its going on my F4i Im street fightering.

 

no one can tell me atleast the best size (both OD and wall thickness)

 

Sch40 or thicker wall thickness. Its seamed pipe steel. You can get stainless for more and it wont ever rust. 7/8 to an inch sounds decent. Since your using 7/8 mock up you should use 7/8 OD for the real one. Any difference in size may throw the measurments off and you amy have to weld gaps, and if you dont have much experience welding the piece will pull and then it will be a ***** to bolt it in. If it has gaps and your fab isnt the greatest tack it up on the bike with all the main bars that are bolted to the frame/subframe/engine on. Tack all you **** on in four different places across from each other on each joint that will be welded. (hehe i said joint.). Then weld the ***** out with a MIG gun or take it to a welding shop to do it. ride the bike there, disconnect the ECU and weld it out. Should be good to go. Also, you can get polypropelyne to go inside the main bar coming out of the frame/engine mount and have it stick out about an inch to and inch and a half. This will save it from flipping up onto the upper somwtimes. Lemmem know if you need anything cleared up. I worked in a metal fab shop for awhile so im not just anyone posting up **** that they think will work.

 

Alright thanx for the help man.

I was def gonna buy sum derlin rod and make some sliders for the ends of the motor mount point to keep it from rolling and to keep those from getting crimped in.

Do you think 7/8" OD .125 chromoly would be good? or would something more like .156 be better? or just reg steel?

Ive been re-thinking the bottom of the cage where the 2 sides will connect...I think I might have a cross bar go either right below the headers or between the headers and the engine (under the oil filter) like the 905's.

Anyone kno how far I should have the cage come out from the frame incase I wanna throw my fairings back on someday? right now the cage is gonna sit about 3 to 3-1/2 inches away from the frame.

 

that sounds fine. Just mock everything up with the fairings on. Chromoly would be best, and i would do the thicker wall of the 2. good luck

 

Just wing it, it makes it more fun

 

not when youve busted 3 stator covers so far this year cause you winged it like i did. I just threw soething up in about 20mins so i could go ride. it worked about half of the time

 

3 stator covers = cage

 

what i meant was that i had a cage built in 20 minutes, i just "threw" it together like the guy above stated and am on my 3rd cover this year so far. SO i took my time in the fab shop to make one that protects everyting now.

 

Just Buy One And Save Your Self The Headace

 

If you loop str8 under wont you bottom out when you set it down???

 

I would love nothing more than to just buy one...but every company wants atleast 230ish for one...I just wanted an FI or a MXD but theyre both fuggin 270-280...Im struggling right now and simply I cant afford one...so this is really my only choice I guess.

I think its gonna end up like a MXD cage kinda...but the bottom of it will run like a 905 in between the engine and headers.

 

is there any down side to using square tubing instead of round?

 

+1, I would say buy a Freestyle because they are rock solid on the F4i but if you are set on making your own model it after the F.I. for sure.

 

not set on making one...forced unless someones selling a FI cage for $150

Square tubing yay or nay?