Anyone had problems with oil starvation due to stunting on the DRZ 400? I made a thread on Supermotojunkie.com without much luck (read it for more info: http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?t=82786).
I know there's a few out there stunting DRZ's and been doing so much longer then me (and still I havn't heard of anyone having the same problems)...

I got new parts for my engine today (yeah if you hadn't guessed it already I fucked mine up ) but I don't know if I dare go back to stuntin it again after I repair it. I know I should probably be ok if I check the oil level all the time and make sure its perfect, however it's really hard to keep track of with all the oil seeping out into the airbox and out of overflow hoses. Also checking the oil on the DRZ sucks, wish there was a "window" or something on the engine instead of having to run it then let it settle/cool down for awhile.

So anyone encountered similar problems or know how to fix them? All help is appreciated

/Will

 

You have to re-route the air vent tubes up to the forks and back down, I had to do this on my WR250F which had oil in the frame as well, that's the only way to do it.
Else you will spit oil out, also riding wheelies over a mile or so is going to be hard on the engine depending on the oil pickup design, and where it's sucking the oil up from.
Check your oil before every ride (I always do) change your oil very very often, like every 600 to 1000 miles or less. use 100% synthetic, it offers betters protection on the rear wheel, I've never blown an engine using 100% synthetic, and changing my oil like a crazy person.

 

I run fully synthetic racing oil and used to check the level before every ride and after, even during the ride if I know I've pulled off a few long distance wheelies or hours of practice. However I believe the engine might have taken some minor damage before I discovered the oil loss problem a few months ago which might have made it more susceptible to the serios damage its got now.

Do you mean I should re-route the tube up and into the frame or just switch to a longer and route it up and back into the airbox?

I have the engine apart at home, I just need to get the clutch basket out to get access to the oil pump but it looks like I might be able to weld on an extended tube makin it suck oil from the bottom/rear of the engine (might be clearance issues though). I'll post up a few pics after I've checked into it a bit more .

 

Route the tube all the way up one side of the frame, all the way to the top of the bars, same way your clutch cable goes up, then run it down the other side and back down, so it will basically loop around the neck of the front of your frame.
The oil will never make it that high up the tube when you are in a wheelie.

 

Thanks for the advice, bought a tube yesterday but it was a bit too thick to easily fit in behind the carburetor past the other lines and stuff, it's really tight on the drz. I'll get a new one tomorow when I go to pick up my new thinner cylinder gasket (should hopefully give the bike some extra torque ) then it's time to assemble the piece of s^¨*t bike with new parts.


Also I've discovered that theres no good way of relocating the oil pump. It sucks through the engine case through the oil filter from the frame and should allways get oil as long as the oil tank is full enough. If I were to mod something to make it get more oil during wheelies it would be to mod the oil tank so that more oil sips down to the oil pump. But the oil tank is in the frame, not very smart to cut open the welds in the frame to acces the oil tank rofl


After I got my bike together I guess I'll just have to check the oil constantly and have the bike run normally a bit inbetween wheelies, and I guess I'll have to forget about those 3mile+ wheelies

I'm thinking about switchin my DRZ for a crf450x to stunt next year, hopefully it will survive until then