Aftermarket Stunt Subframes
Aftermarket Stunt Subframes
I know a guy who roadraces and builds racing subframes. He livs about fifteen minutes from me and I was thinking about talking to him about building stunt subframes.
IF I tell him that there is a market for them maybe he will build them for us.
I was thinking aluminum stongly braced with a built in mount for a replaceable scrape bar. Plus have all the stock mounts and bolt holes still intact.
Give me some feedback and suggestions and I will get in touch with him.
IF I tell him that there is a market for them maybe he will build them for us.
I was thinking aluminum stongly braced with a built in mount for a replaceable scrape bar. Plus have all the stock mounts and bolt holes still intact.
Give me some feedback and suggestions and I will get in touch with him.
Originally posted by BigBalla
what? could you imagine how heavy that would be?
it would be as heavy as ed's ***
now how big is my
hand
what? could you imagine how heavy that would be?
it would be as heavy as ed's ***
now how big is my
hand i am in aviation school right now so sorry
if you have dissimular metals touching it causes corrosion VERY fast making both metals to weaken. so even though steel sounds like a good alternative it really will **** the bike up but if you were to add (ribs) or (formers)"aviation talk" along your stock subframe it would be tough as hell. **** it works for jet wings
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after reading the post im starting to womder if replacing the aluminum subframe might cause the same concern that was raised in an earlier thread about making steel rearsets, which seemed to become a nixed idea after many people replied do to the fact tha this could cause the spots on the frame to break instead of the rear sets..............so to play devils advocate, if we were to use a much stiffer less forgiving metal in the subframe that might begin to transfer any shock/abuse to the main frame of the bike at the points where the subframe and frame attach possibly causing problems with cracking/bending of the actual frame instead of the subframe. With that in mind we know that the braced aluminum subframes are holding up well but still are allowing enough give not to cause problems with the frame itself (from everything ive heard anyway) and personnally i would think its alot less of a pain in the *** tp both find and change a braced subframe once in a while then to start worryin about crackin the "main" frame and havin to find and change one of them??????
well thats just my opinion and we all know there aint no book of scott in the bible so take it or leave it????????:D :D :helmet
well thats just my opinion and we all know there aint no book of scott in the bible so take it or leave it????????:D :D :helmet
As far as the 2 metals Corroding I put Never seize on it and never have that problem! Tearing the **** outa the frame itself could Happen I find that mostly **** breaks when it is ***** so if you lock tight it or use longer bolts with Nylock nuts it shouldn't come *****!
I see You can't Spell ***** Maybe it should be Luce or louis LOL
I see You can't Spell ***** Maybe it should be Luce or louis LOL
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Crizzymynizzle
[B]As far as the 2 metals Corroding I put Never seize on it and never have that problem!
i know that putting two different metals can cause corrosion in some situations, for instance my father is aplumber and i know from his experience u cannot use differnent types of piping (i know its copper and another type not sure if its aluminum or iron im not sure which) on the same system ie//water or heating. because somet property in the two mteals reacts with each other, but i thaink that has more to do with the water as a third element, not positive on this like i said. I just dont think just having steel touching aluminum will cause corrosion? We do use steel bolts/bearings and they dont seem to cause a corrosion problem at the points where they contact the aluminum???
[B]As far as the 2 metals Corroding I put Never seize on it and never have that problem!
i know that putting two different metals can cause corrosion in some situations, for instance my father is aplumber and i know from his experience u cannot use differnent types of piping (i know its copper and another type not sure if its aluminum or iron im not sure which) on the same system ie//water or heating. because somet property in the two mteals reacts with each other, but i thaink that has more to do with the water as a third element, not positive on this like i said. I just dont think just having steel touching aluminum will cause corrosion? We do use steel bolts/bearings and they dont seem to cause a corrosion problem at the points where they contact the aluminum???
i work in a factory and it has hundreds of machines and robots worth up to 30 000 000 dollers. they are all constucted using aluminum and steel parts and everything that is aluminum has steel bolts holding the pieces. i have never seen any noticable sighns of evn moderate currosion on anything, and some of the **** has been in there for up to 40 years. so i dont think you have to worry about anything especially if the parts are painted.
the only way to find out what it "might cost" is to experimate and make one, you could limit the design to just a few bikes that are most commonly stunted... either way the market would be limited, however it would be hilarious to see everyone all of a sudden running out to purchase product "X" for their bike and bolting it on...
Alright guys,I'll try to get in touch with the guy today. I'llsee what his opinion is on it and get back to you with a possible price.
I would say that they would be made for GSXRs and CBRs first since those to me seem the most commonly stunted.
They will also have to be made of aluminum to still have some flex and to keep the weight down.
I would say that they would be made for GSXRs and CBRs first since those to me seem the most commonly stunted.
They will also have to be made of aluminum to still have some flex and to keep the weight down.
OK, I talked to him today. We figured it out for my Gixxer. It's going to be heavy aluminum, extra braces in the weak areas, built in scrape bar about 8 inches wide with a replaceable nylon slider, and possibly another bar down each side that we will drill a hole and bolt to the frame. That way there are 6 mounting points instead of 4. He says the stock frame is kinda weak where the subframe bolts so thats the reason for the extra mount.
He says it'll be about $200 which is what he charges for race ones so that isn't bad. That is still cheaper than buying a stock one only to have to build a bar and then break it again.
It's going to be a week or two so I'll post some pic's when we get it done.
He says it'll be about $200 which is what he charges for race ones so that isn't bad. That is still cheaper than buying a stock one only to have to build a bar and then break it again.
It's going to be a week or two so I'll post some pic's when we get it done.
I'm saving up for a TIG welder, & will be able to build/repair sub-frames, etc.,etc. I've been TIG welding for 20 yrs. or so, & can weld alum. or steel. I'll probably get lotsa practice working on psyco650s bike LOL








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