i'm almost sure i'll have access to a welder THIS week so i need to get my **** together, my idea is to run a piece of 1.5 inch angle iron along each side of the subframe and then use probably just another piece of 1.5 in angle for the scrape plate. will this be strong enough?? i'm not worried about it wearing through right away it only has to make it through the year. also how wide should i make it 12, 14 inches???



also on jd 2 where they have the pipe clamps holding the bar on is that really a legit idea??

kinda like this

 

Thats exactly how I built mine but I used "C" channel steel- not angle iron. there are a couple of spots you need to grind so it will fit on the subframe. Just make sure the bar sits right so it hits the ground flat. I bolted mine right to the subframe- no clamps. It lasted 2 seasons, I only had to replace the scrape part when it wore down. Good luck

 

c channel has less of a lip right, like the sides are only about 1/4 inch???

 

I think your gonna need more than that for the scrape surface.

 

ABD YOU SHOULDN'T DRILL THE SUB WILL MAKE IT WEAK...

 

go with the freestyle inginuity plans that way will snap the subframe easy.

 

This is how I built our bars. On Tony's 900RR I ran 1" x 2" closed aluminum channel (rectangle). Then I attached it to the top rail of the subframe with six bolts. We had extra flat stock welded on the inside of the subframe to strengthen it. Next I had the welder add a piece of 1/2" aluminum flat stock across the back to hold the scrape bar. then I just cut the scrape out of 1/2" titanium and screwed it fast. The scrape is like 14" long by 2 1/2" wide. It works for Tony just fine.

Continue to my lower post for details of my GSXR 1000 bar.

Laterz, KW Rich

 

whats the differenceif it's bolted to the side or bolts to the side and has a piece along the top?? once it's bolted to the subframe it's already weakened.

thee two statements conflict each other, since the FI bar bolts to the sub frame...

 

I have never broken a sub frame in 2 years of scraping- mine has 3 holes in either side. The "C" channel actually has a 1/4 inch lip on top and bottom that hold on top and bottom of the sub frame, in order to break the sub frame you would have to break the steel bar as well...... Actually I did break a sub frame, but it broke where it bolts to the frame (no where near the holes I drilled).

 

I can't help you w/ building on b/c i have a gsxr but i also have three holes drilled in my subframe on each side and i haven't had a problem w/ it breaking...i broke one of the mounts but that was b/c of my beginner stupidity and slammed it up on the 12 the first time but what are ya gonna do right

 

i used 3/8" thick and 1.5" wide steel plate. Bolted it in 2 places on both sides of my frame nad welded the plate ont eh back. works good but i crashed it and bent the subframe. still works but it sits sideways on 12 now.

 

i used 3/4" hollow square steel for the bars and a 10" x 3" flat piece for the pad. its mounted like this, i took the bolts out of both sides for the rear passenger pegs and got longer ones so the bar is on the inside, put the longer bolts in with the rear footpegs and then i supported the back with a piece going up to the bottom of the subframe under the tail light......works like a champ!!!!

 

Thats a heavy *** bar on that 900

 

www.freestyleingenuity.com