i just switched my carbed f4 to injection and now I have some issues with the distribution - it does not sound normal

my buddy who did all the work changed the camshaft too and he said that he put everything (axes, etc) back in the same way as he got them out, to match the wear of the parts back again

he double checked this ^^ but the sound is still present

any input on this ?

 

did you swap the entire head and cams? sounds like the shims are mixed up.

 

Should have just bought a whole motor... Idk id have to head the sound, good luck

 

check your valves (you must check valves anytime you swap cams) and check cam chain tension

 

swapped the camshaft & injectors
what are the shims? i dont recognize the english term ...

later edit: i checked the service manual, now i know what they are ... will check that too

 

will do that, do you think that something wrong with the valves can cause the distribution not to sound "normal" ?

 

do a valve adjustment since you swapped out the cam, the clearances are off and more then likley need to add some shims

 

thanks guys
it seems like my mechanic its a little rushed up, not to say dumb, he mixed the shims and screw up something there

everything is ok now regarding this ^^

now I got my bike with me and i face some problems regarding wiring:

-f4 alternator has a black connector (dunno how many pins, which i think it should go to regulator)
f4i regulator has a 3p white connector - which goes to alternator
is it ok to wire them ^^ according to f4i wiring diagram?

-there is a map sensor connector 3p gray - i got nothing connected in there what should that be ? i checked the manual - it says something about the map sensor .. what is that?

-from the ECM gray connector another wire with a 3p connector splits - the middle pin is like a dummy, its empty - what is with this connector, do you know?

 

The map sensor hooks up to a vacuum line, and what it does is lets the engine know how much of a vacuum is on the intake system, so it knows how much fuel to supply.

I'm not 100% sure, but I think most honda map sensors are universal..



this is kind of what the f4i's map sensor looks like, except this one is for a honda CAR..
http://media.photobucket.com/image/h...r/IMG_7906.jpg

the map sensor usually attaches to the air box I believe, but I always just leave mine dangling, just important to have it plugged into a vacuum line and the wire harness

 

it makes sense now why I have one vacuum hose free for use

what about the f4 carbed alternator connector to f4i regulator - the connectors do not match - is it ok to cut alternator's wires and plug them into the regulator connector, according to the f4i wiring diagram ?

and yea one more thing what is the ect sensor ? it seems that i miss that too ((

 

ect I believe is the engine coolant temp, I think its located under the throttle bodies on the coolant hose connection


I'm not sure about your alternator plug, I'd wait tell someone posts up with definite information so you don't fry anything

 

thanks buddy

 

i have a very smart buddy who knows his **** about electronics and he told me that it doesnt matter where the wires go so i plugged out the wires from the alternator connector and directly connected them to the regulator connector

put everything in place, but that damn **** wouldnt want to start

i remember that during winter i left my bike outside in the snow (-20 degrees) and in the spring the battery was dead ... charged it a little while I was on carburation, but still couldnt start itself I always had to ask someone to push me ...

i put the battery on charge so I will see how things are going tomorrow when the battery will be charged

can that fuel pump noise be heard even if the battery is almost dead?
because I couldnt hear any sound from the fuel pump ....

 

It all depends on how dead the battery is. if the gauge cluster and the headlights turn on, the fuel pump should cycle(in my expierience) . So i would make sure you have a fully charged battery, so you can eliminate that as being a possible problem.

 

i dont have gauges/headlight ... right now should be charged so I will try this tomorrow, as now here is already late ....

hope this the battery is the problem and nothing else electrical/or some other stuff

 

quick update:
- baterry charged - still the same as before
- i tested the fuel pump directly on the battery - its creating pressure, working fine
- i do have a vague guess that the CDI is not working, anyone knows how to test this ? i tested it by switching the bike on and measured if is there any tension in the fuel pump connector - there was nothing there
any tips from you guys ? im going insane :bang head

 

me and my buddy were having the same issue with his f4i... he said he tried pushing it down the drive way and tried to get it turn over... i listened to him we ripped the bike apart trying to figure it out and got nothin... then we tried to push it again (better in 2nd gear to jump start) and wala started up try it with someone on the back so you dont just slide.. its worth a try..

 

the easiest way you should have done this is to get an f4i motor and wiring harness... then you would be trouble free!!!

 

you have to swap the wire harness, head/cams as a set, (if you dont use a f4i head u wont have the cam sensor),stator plug, thermistat housing, and the ignition pick up rotor in the clutch side..(if u dont it wont start)

 

once your battery is dead and left dead for more then a day, it's FUCKED, you must buy a new one

you can't run batterys dead, once you run a battery completely dead once, the life is cut in half.. And if you leave it dead, the battery will likely never recover