Oil Weight
10-27-2009, 10:12 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Athens, GA
Age: 35
Posts: 116
Re: Oil Weight
i always use mobil 1 racing 4t 10w-40 fully synthetic...buy it by the case on sale but regardless, that ****'s expensive 
but i've never had any motor problems and i have 20K miles of stunting on my f4i (have oil pickup)...i just change oil and filter every few thousand
but i've never had any motor problems and i have 20K miles of stunting on my f4i (have oil pickup)...i just change oil and filter every few thousand
10-28-2009, 12:43 AM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Anywhere wheelies happen
Age: 37
Posts: 5,869
Re: Oil Weight
Ever time the difference between building pressure on manufacturers recommended 10-40 vs 20-50?
I did test the difference between 10-40 nad 15-40 on my f4i and my 1990 honda prelude, both took ALMOST twice as long to build pressure!
I did run rotella for a good 5-8k or so on my f4i, but now run either super tech or mobile clean 5000 10-30 or 10-40 depending on season in my f4i, WELL over 35k on my motor, stock clutch, still running strong as hell
edit: btw if you don't know what I mean by my post, I'm saying, there is NO reason to run 20-50 unless you ONLY start your bike when its 90f+ out, and NEVER let it cool down. Bike manufacturers aren't brain dead, they didn't say run 10-40 because they are clueless as to what actually works, they have some sort of idea as to what's going on.
I did test the difference between 10-40 nad 15-40 on my f4i and my 1990 honda prelude, both took ALMOST twice as long to build pressure!
I did run rotella for a good 5-8k or so on my f4i, but now run either super tech or mobile clean 5000 10-30 or 10-40 depending on season in my f4i, WELL over 35k on my motor, stock clutch, still running strong as hell
edit: btw if you don't know what I mean by my post, I'm saying, there is NO reason to run 20-50 unless you ONLY start your bike when its 90f+ out, and NEVER let it cool down. Bike manufacturers aren't brain dead, they didn't say run 10-40 because they are clueless as to what actually works, they have some sort of idea as to what's going on.
10-28-2009, 01:11 AM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Crystal River, Florida, USA
Age: 42
Posts: 1,446
Re: Oil Weight
i have been running 10-40 but recently switched to 20-50 due to taking my head apart and seeing the wear on the cams from the bike running at 220+ constantly, kawi mechanic told me to run 20-50 for a few months, then we took the head back apart and there was 0 wear on the new cams... to each there own, but i will never run anything other than 20-50 semi syn, from now on.
10-28-2009, 01:22 AM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Anywhere wheelies happen
Age: 37
Posts: 5,869
Re: Oil Weight
i have been running 10-40 but recently switched to 20-50 due to taking my head apart and seeing the wear on the cams from the bike running at 220+ constantly, kawi mechanic told me to run 20-50 for a few months, then we took the head back apart and there was 0 wear on the new cams... to each there own, but i will never run anything other than 20-50 semi syn, from now on.
220 constantly? Have you tried fixing your over heating issue or you do you just run it at 220 and run too thick of an oil as band-aid?
You shouldn't be at 220 unless you run on rev limiter constantly, donig burnouts, revl imiter coasters, or anything high rpm for extended periods of time
still would be weird for most the time your bike running to be Above 220... Not sure my f4i gets above 220f for more then 1-4 hours a YEAR out of riding 10kish miles a year
On a side note, how many miles were on the cams before you removed them the first time?
How many miles on the second set of cams?
And why were the cams removed the first and second time, why have you been through two motors? And were the cams even damaged or just 'worn' and replaced without actually failing?
edit: also if your kawi is spitting cams in less then 30k, then maybe its a kawi problem and not a oil problem?
I mean, since whats kawi recommend, 10-40 oil? Why would that cause wear?
Last edited by Towlieee; 10-28-2009 at 01:27 AM.
10-28-2009, 08:16 AM
#12
motarded
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Illinois
Posts: 743
Re: Oil Weight
easy towlie no need to get pissed about him running 20 50 lol. he has proly been been thru 2 motors cus he has a new bike and people are still figurin out what they gota do to keep em running right and keep em together. i was told 20 50 by several people and i have had good luck with it.
10-28-2009, 08:36 AM
#13
Soup Mafia
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Vero Beach, Fl USA
Age: 35
Posts: 7,922
Re: Oil Weight
220 constantly? Have you tried fixing your over heating issue or you do you just run it at 220 and run too thick of an oil as band-aid?
You shouldn't be at 220 unless you run on rev limiter constantly, donig burnouts, revl imiter coasters, or anything high rpm for extended periods of time
still would be weird for most the time your bike running to be Above 220... Not sure my f4i gets above 220f for more then 1-4 hours a YEAR out of riding 10kish miles a year
You shouldn't be at 220 unless you run on rev limiter constantly, donig burnouts, revl imiter coasters, or anything high rpm for extended periods of time
still would be weird for most the time your bike running to be Above 220... Not sure my f4i gets above 220f for more then 1-4 hours a YEAR out of riding 10kish miles a year
Last edited by Ethiopian; 10-28-2009 at 08:42 AM.
10-28-2009, 04:10 PM
#17
Back to North Carolina...
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Ft Bragg NC area
Age: 45
Posts: 3,478
Re: Oil Weight
220 constantly? Have you tried fixing your over heating issue or you do you just run it at 220 and run too thick of an oil as band-aid?
You shouldn't be at 220 unless you run on rev limiter constantly, donig burnouts, revl imiter coasters, or anything high rpm for extended periods of time
still would be weird for most the time your bike running to be Above 220... Not sure my f4i gets above 220f for more then 1-4 hours a YEAR out of riding 10kish miles a year
On a side note, how many miles were on the cams before you removed them the first time?
How many miles on the second set of cams?
And why were the cams removed the first and second time, why have you been through two motors? And were the cams even damaged or just 'worn' and replaced without actually failing?
edit: also if your kawi is spitting cams in less then 30k, then maybe its a kawi problem and not a oil problem?
I mean, since whats kawi recommend, 10-40 oil? Why would that cause wear?
You shouldn't be at 220 unless you run on rev limiter constantly, donig burnouts, revl imiter coasters, or anything high rpm for extended periods of time
still would be weird for most the time your bike running to be Above 220... Not sure my f4i gets above 220f for more then 1-4 hours a YEAR out of riding 10kish miles a year
On a side note, how many miles were on the cams before you removed them the first time?
How many miles on the second set of cams?
And why were the cams removed the first and second time, why have you been through two motors? And were the cams even damaged or just 'worn' and replaced without actually failing?
edit: also if your kawi is spitting cams in less then 30k, then maybe its a kawi problem and not a oil problem?
I mean, since whats kawi recommend, 10-40 oil? Why would that cause wear?
10-28-2009, 04:17 PM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Anywhere wheelies happen
Age: 37
Posts: 5,869
Re: Oil Weight
do you have your fans set to run? If not, well the stock fan doesn't come on tell 227ish, so of course it'll run at that temp.
But I guess you all can run 20-50 if you wish. I'll run something close to what the manufacturer recommends
edit: just remember, cold start up is very hard on motors..
But I guess you all can run 20-50 if you wish. I'll run something close to what the manufacturer recommends
edit: just remember, cold start up is very hard on motors..
