I jumped the gun and bought the FTI dual quad, then a few weeks later Hohey dropped the big rotor kit. I really wanted the big rotor so I bought just the rotor, and modified the FTI bracket to accept the bigger rotor...There wasnt enough room to add a bracket to space it out like I planned, so I cut off the mounts spaced them out and had my welder lay some gangster TIG welds to hold it all back together...

I would have rather sold the FTI and got the Hohey complete kit, but no one was biting on my bracket in the for sale...

Cant wait to try it out after work

 

is there anything you can't make?

 

Yes I dont make babies....

 

you dont but you could if you wanted to.

 

how much for you to mod mine? looks awesome.

 

true but we all know thats the beginning of the end

 

nah, its not that bad...


well... it did make me quit stunting, but ill say its a decent trade off

 

 

looks pretty good, im waiting for my fti bracket in the mail for a week now .... and i did think bout the big rotor kit .... guess ill do that later on ... or i might go through the trouble like you and just modify that ****

 

I doubt it would be worth it considering shipping back and forth, but its fairly simple to do...I cut the bracket and made the spacer blocks and squared everything off in 2 hours yesterday, then my welder welded it for me on the spot while I waited for free. If you have hookups at a machine shop and for welding, you should be able to get it done for pretty cheap and fast...

The stock rotor is 220mm and the Hohey BR is 250mm so there is a 15mm gap difference, but with the stock rotor the calipers cant go on all the way and needed to be trimmed 5mm. So the spacing needs to actually be 10mm, then the calipers go on all the way, you dont need to trim pads and you use the whole rotor...

I lost 1mm for the bandsaw cut when cutting them off, then another 1mm when I surfaced the cut to square everything up...So I ended up with 12mm thick spacing blocks to give me the 10mm I needed...

 

I'm thinking about the big rotor now too. I made my kit for about $10.

 

WOW this **** is .....Only stall bucked it once, after that I was loving it

 

Johnny that looks KILLER! And i usually wouldn't trust welds over billet, but i've seen your welders work and thats probably one of the few welds i would trust on that thing.

I really dig how you broke down the science behind it too!

 

I know what your saying I always prefer billet over welded or bolted together parts, but if you think about it the chain adjuster blocks are welded onto the swingarm, and not only that, the tab that holds the caliper bracket from spinning around it also welded to the inside of the swingarm...And its welded to some much thinner aluminum, so welding billet to billet is much stronger then that....The welded bracket would not be the weakest point because of this, if anything I believe that the tab on the inside would be the weaker welded part ...

And it all comes down to the welder in the end, and knowing how to weld different metals properly...When I brought that bracket to him he was welding some thiner stuff, and he asked me "is this all solid aluminum", and he made some adjustments to his welding machine because solid billet needs alot more heat to weld properly....You can tell the difference just hearing the sound it makes while hes welding it...There is some serious penetration on these welds, and I V grooved everything so I can guarantee these welds will not fail...

Ive tried out a few other welders and was not impressed at all. My guy can weld very long welds continuously without stopping. Which takes alot of skill, because he feeds the filler rod in one hand with this thumb while welding... Most other guys I have tried neeed to stop and adjust the rod in their feeding hand and start again, which leaves a stop/start point in the middle of the bead....Nothing looks cooler then a 2ft long aluminum TIG weld without any stop/starts in it

 

[color="red"]very very true, thats someone whos been doing it a long time. I can feed about half the rod continuously(but i still suck lol) after that i have to stop..if someone is good enough they can stop and start and reheat the bead and have a cleaner stop/start

 

True you can make it look pretty clean, but you can always tell that you stopped. Its not a big deal, its just one of those things that you can tell someone is skilled...As long as there is no wire brushing or grinding dirty *** chicken **** welds

 

good stuff on the bracket... looks sweet... but **** me running i do not know how you guys use
A. Big Rotor
and
B. four piston for footbrake
hahaha

even when i rode big rotor with 4 piston on a 636... holy moly...

 

To me it was just like when I first tired the 4 piston, you just have to get used to its power...Its too much at first and you stall a few times, then you learn how to adapt to it...Now going back and trying other peoples single piston setups, or adaptor setups, and Im like "woah how do you guys use this weak *** ****?"

Last night after about 30min I was loving it for the HB, it gave some more locking power for stalling things fast and abruptly. I also really liked it for no throttle hand stuff, just seemed easier to modulate and I was going longer and smoother on no throttle hand stuff...

As for the 4 piston for the foot brake, I felt the same for foot on the seat no handers...Little more braking power/bite, but very easy and smooth to modulate. My no handers were so long and smooth...

That being said I am still not used to the 4 piston or the big rotor for sit downs or coasters...Coasters are still slamming down on me sometimes, and my sitdowns suck and I keep stalling after 3 or 4 of em...Im still thinking about trying a different caliper for the foot brake...Gonna give this some time, but if I still dont like it I will try something else

Another big + for me is not having to buy pre trimmed pads, now Im using all the free pads my friends took out of the used F4i calipers they bought for their dual quads...

 

hahaha.. i dunno haha only way id need to upgrade my brake would be if i was doing street sessions too. but i use a hammer and flathead to trim pads takes 2 mins.. easy

also i had already broke my marchesini rear rotor carrier with my current setup.. im not tryn to add any more braking or BREAKING power lol

but rock on! haha keep postn up all the new hotness...

 

I think you would actually like the big rotor if you gave it some time

Just adding the big rotor to the 4 piston for HB, wanst that huge of a difference, just a little more bite/power and easier to modulate....I adapted fast, and I started doing new things with it last night...Like the stall jumps, I do foot in the bar circles and death spins, stall them jump as high as I can to seat stander and clutch out...Just have learn to kick my legs out like you guys are
And you have to make sure your completley off the brake when you clutch out, any amount of pressure and stall buck!

PS are you a 13mm or 16mm master kinda guy?