aight so i got a pretty much brand new brembo 16x18 used it with reg hb set up got the ft dual 4 piston set up and the hand brake still feels to sqishy we tried every thing run the bike alittle to git the bubble out bleed with the hb caliper like it sit on the forks , caliper is good,seals fine pads fine, bleeded up on the hb too, so i dunno is it gunna be like that it feels like is was when i used a regular hb set up

 

zip tie the lever to the bar all the way in...and take your resivoir cap off make sure its upright

leave it like that for an hour or two or overnight..it will push all the air bubles out through the resivoir

then put the resivoir cap back on and cut the zip tie. it will be tight then

 

when i bled mine, i did it off the bike....the way the calipers mounts it traps a bubble right in the caliper

i used a motion pro tire spoon to keep the pads seperated(as if it were a rotor)

try that if u havent yet

 

ohp re read that and seems uve done that already

hows the stopping power. ive got mine wit a 1krr master and its got major squish compared to hohey 4 pistn wit brembo.....

 

stoping is there i think haven't rode it to much yet my buddy got the hohey 4 with a 1000rr master and it butter barly have to pull it in , i just hate the sqishyness

 

when u ridin again?

 

today if in drys up and rain stays away

 

how does it do that then?? if you push the lever to the bar, the master cilinder is sealed! if you squeezed the brakes, but air(pressure,fluid, etc) could still make its way from the brakeline to the reservoir, how could you ever accumulate brake pressure?
i think (THINK!)what it does is dissolve the air into the fluid. air does that under pressure..

 

the zip tie method is a good idea i do that after the initail bleed and it seems to help.
i also use a handheld automotive vacuum pump at the bleeder valve to assit me with the bleed. and i tap the master, line and caliper with a screwdirver, socket wrench, or metal object buring and in btween bleeding. i bleed and bleed..... ride a bit and bleed again.
i run a hohey 4 piston set up, but remember your handbrake is only as good as you bleed it.
check out this thread too. it has some good info.
https://www.stuntlife.com/forums/443...st-little.html

 

heres a thread all about the zip tie method
https://www.stuntlife.com/forums/2-s...leed+handbrake

 

that thread doesnt answer my question, at all!

 

yeah your right, sorry bro....... it doesnt answer the questions. and i dont have the answers either.
just figured i'd post it up in case it would help or if anyone wanted to check it out since it is about the zip tie bleeding.

 

no prob but i just really wanna know...

 

try bell rays dot 5 fluid...the purple stuff

 

why? your system and seals need 5.1, not 5 silicone..

 

this just get any excess air our after you bleed it manaully. I dont understand how it works but it does and my brakes is rock solid. no air in it at all

 

+1 on the bleed and ride and bleed thing. air tends to get trapped in the foot brake master. If you hear a whistling noise (at the footbrake master) when you sqeeze the HB than i would tap on it or take it off and tilt it while your bleeding it. I use the FT adaptor as well w/a 4 piston caliper.

 

i think (i'm jus spitballin) the idea is not to build hydrolic pressure but to keep any airbubbles from forming in the brake master. if you had to rule out the possiblity of the master having a leak this would be one way of finding out. but maybe he forgot to mention that you have to crack the bleeder valve and tighten up right after then zip tieing the lever. but once you cut the zip tie you would still have to pump the brake to build presure afterwards and hopfully air won't be drawn from a leak somewhere.

 

squishy doesnt mean there isnt any power

 

I dont know what it does,but it definatly works good,I do it to my front brake and HB every couple weeks