Not Like You Can Jump To The Tank Anyways Hahaha

 

house of kolor is the best...my uncle works for them so i have seen a lot of their paint and their work..but its expensive

 

this is what i do for a living...lol start with 1500 wet..if the peel isnt too bad..if it is..start with 1000, then go to 1500, then i jump to 3000, but i think only 3m makes that...i personally use 3M polishes for buffing... xtra cut with a whool pad for stage 1. then foam pad with their swirl remover for stage 2.. post pics when ur done!

 

House of Kolor is good ****...but expensive and if ur not doin anything crazy, kinda a waste of money, i like to use Sikkens paint or PPG n less im doing custom work...then its HOK

 

i too used to work for HOK and there products are NOT expensive, they cost just as much as any other quality paint line.

you do what for a living? cut and rub? if you do, im either gonna have to call bullshit or say that you do a horrible job, jumping from 1500 to 3000 will leave some serious sand scratches and using extra cut with a whool pad will burn the **** out of your paint quick, fast, and in a hurry.


see initial reply and PPG cost just as much as HOK.

 

I got another paint question


does sanding the clear REALLY help with orange peel? I mean, if your paint under the clear is orange peeled, will sanding the clear really help?


Also is there any use in sanding the paint itself? I figured you painted your product ,sanded it with 1500-2000, then cleared it, then sanded it and buffed it no?



And one last thing, I've NEVER wet sanded my bike other then prep work, I always just prep it, and paint it all in one day.. Because spray paint can always say "must wait 7 days to recoat" and I never want to wait 7 days to recoat..
How long do I REALLY need to wait? 7 days?

 

towliee i dont think wet sanding over clear will help orange peel under it thought cus u've already sealed and filled. if it's not too visable sure why not but if u got a dimensional orange peel then ur gonna be sanding just some parts smothe of imperfections and others ur gonna be taking the clear off completely. no you dont really gotta wait 7 days between coats. if you got good even heat to cure the paint then you can lay a few coats in a day, dont rush a whole job though cus they paint wont truely dry and the more coats u put on with out complete drying the longer the complete dry will take meaning u can dig ur nail in there n pull up a tacky piece of paint the closer u get to the bodywork. may want to wait though to add a different color or before you clear. a nice decent multi stage job takes bout a week to be ready to mount n ride. if you're just going with one color and a clear a few days, no clear just prep/paint in the morning, wait overnight if u gotta sand, if not throw a few coats let dry a good 24hrs n roll out.

 

just keepin it real.

i would recommend following the manufacturers instructions and waiting 7 days to re-coat or sand/polish (the solvents need time to fully evaporate). the most coats i would apply at one time would be 3 when using rattle can.

 

alpha chino so on the r6 you didnt use rattle can?

 

I paint for a living(from prep to masking to painting to buffing...i do it all), and no 1500 dry followed by 3000 wet actually leaves NO left over scratches, hell 3M even recommends doing it that way. and no xtra cut doesn't burn the hell outta anything with a wool pad, yea eventually you'll go through if you have no idea what you are doing, but sounds to me like you need to freshen up on ur products or learn how to buff...before u go callin bullshit on anyone who does this EVERY DAY 40+hrs a week, thank u

 

hey sx racer do you like painting for a living doesit pay well?
i have been looking for some line of work to get into and i think i would like that.
do you put out dents and **** too and do body work or just strictly paint?

 

i dont really do bodywork...i can fix dents but as far as pulling frames and such i have no idea how to do that lol thats what my bodymen are for haha... umm actually the pay is decent, but thats relative to your experience too, right now with the auto industry hitting the crapper, things have been slowing down...thank God for snow so ppl start crashin lol.

 

yea that makes since i just donthave the money or desire to go to a regular college and take classes i have no interst in

 

lol +1 on that...thats y i went to flight school haha now that was some fun **** to learn and do...school was flying planes..doesnt get better than that..lol

 

HOK is not any more expensive than Dupont or PPG. I prefer HOK clear over any other clear that I have sprayed and it is no more than Duponts value clear. HOK base coat is not any more expensive either, but goddamn their base coat can bite you in the *** sometimes, as far as reacting and **** with other products underneath it.

For buffing, I usually start with 1500 dry and use a palm sander. **** sanding by hand, I am over that ****. Sometimes I follow the 1500 with 2000, but rarely since 1500 will buff out. If the clear is peeled badly or I am smoothing flames or tape lines, I will occasionally start with 1200 then move up to 1500.

I use 3M polish, it used to be Perfect It Extra Cut, but they have new cutting compound out now that replaced the extra cut. I usually hit it three times with the cutting compound on a foam cutting pad and then follow it up two times with the finishing compound on a foam finishing pad.

 

I use 200 grit followed by flat black. HOLLAA BLOX

 

+1000 pretty much what i was saying..and see the xtra cut doesnt burn through Alpha Chino!!!! and yes HOK can be very tempermental lol

 

i use kaboom and a shop towel to clean and prep.

300 grit.

clean again.

lay on about 3 coats of paint in an hour (it's quick dry ****)

lay on another 2 coats or so the next day.

bout 2 or 3 coats of clear.

and BAM that ****'s hot for about 6 months then it's time to paint again.

(of course i let my bike get pretty dirty in that 6 months given that i ride street every day, otherwise it would probably last longer.)

Total: @ $20-30 + 8-20 hours depending on how much i'm painting.

 

 

I agree 1500 followed by 3000 works great when using xtra cut compound. I have been doing this for a living for the past 9 years and the 3m reps told us to do it the same way.

btw.. I use xtra cut on every thing that I buff and the only way you are going to burn the paint is if you don't know how to buff properly.

Here is my old truck that I painted with hok tangelo pearl. The only buffing done was to nib a couple pieces of trash.