Am I right? I just got done putting my rear sprocket on and there is some play from side to side (if you shake it like you would on a car). It also turns about a quarter-inch without the wheel. I figured I'd ask before I put the wheel back on.

 

you have rubber behind your sprocket im tired so i cant think of the part name but I think its like cush drive bushings! so when you put it on theres always a little play...if the bolts are tight you can pull your sprocket off and make sure these big rubber bushings are set properly then put the assembly back on tighten everything up and your good. this is normal

 

cush drive

 

Thats eff'n weird. That kind of movement wouldn't pass in the automotive world. I just wanted to verify that I am grabbing the sprocket at 9 and 3 (o'clock) and pushing a bit with one hand while pulling with the other. So this play is normal?

 

I think its kinda making up for the fact the motors are bolted, and it smooths the ride out.

Whereas a car has rubber motor mounts, so the motor can move and make the rider smoother

 

Alright, **** it - it's going back together. Anyone know if a 130 link will work with a -1 +7 setup on a K5 636, or will I have to cut the fugger down?

 

cush drives wear out like ***** does

 

130 will be more than enough, im sure you'll have to cut it down

 

...****...no breaker.

 

bust out the grinder or go randomly ask your neighbors to borrow 1

 

My neighbors hate me and I don't feel like murdering it with the hammer and screwdriver as I did with the chain thats off.

 

you dont need a breaker to shorten it

ginder or a dremel, grind the rivet heads down, use a screw driver to pop it apart

 

For some odd reason that wouldn't work with the O.E. chain on my bike. I had to hammer a flathead driver between the links and o's and twist...t'was a bitch. I don't wanna **** my new chain like that, but I guess I'll giv'er a try.

 

have the 2 girls in your avatar pic help, they look bored

 

+1



Kush Drive bushings......

 

Either way you need to grind the factory rivet on the chain before you can take it apart....chain breaker or screw driver or whatever. Just use a lil grinder and only takes a sec....that is if you need to.

Ok from what the lady at vortex says, and I found it to work for me but not saying it is true, Down/up one in front sprocket needs no chain lenth adjustment. For every sprocket tooth you go up/down from stock in the rear you add/subtract a chain link..

For examle...01 F4i Stock chain length 108 stock rear sprocket 46
I went down one front and fifty six rear...118 is the desired chain length.


Not saying this is true for every chain and some could be stretched more than others.. This might just be a general guide she told me and seemed to work...

 

ok k5 636 -1 +7

stock rear sprocket 43
stock rear chain length 108

-1 no change

+7 add seven links to stock chain length = 115

start with a 115 link chain

by the way it shows that bike has a 520 chain stock.. Make sure your chain is a 520 and as high a tensile strength as possible given the torque stunting puts on your final drive. Thats why going to a 525 would offer much higher chain strengths generally but then it would cost more if you already bought 520 sprockets...



you have 130 link ...wow you need to take fifteen links off. make sure to count them correctly or you may not cut enough or cut to many. also use a rivet master link if you do need to cut down....Good Luck

 

cush drives are whack . . . . put black tape around the back of the sprocket for a temp. fix !!! 05-06-636 are the worst