so i just got my new setup together and i have run a half bottle through the whole system bled the master..... bled the caliper... even did the trick where you take the master off the clipon and move it around while you are bleeding it.... no more bubbles comin through but it wont lock up the back tire for **** and it feels lever feels soft for like the first 3/4-1 inch of pull.... wtf else can i do.... even used the POS vacuum bleeders from vatozone and still shitty

 

Try removing the rear caliper and slowly push the pistons in with your brake fluid cup open.You should see bubbles coming out.Afterwards put something flat that will fit between the brake pads and pump the handbrake with the caliper still removed.When you get pressure,bleed with the bleeders shooting upwards.When you feel you got enough pressure put back the caliper on the bike.Feel if you have more pressure.It usually takes a run or two to help take out the air that might still be caught in the sytem.Also check for a leak.You could have a very small one and it usually feels like air in the system.I hope this helps.

 

hmmm... i bleed mine upsidedown and still only took me 15mins and it locks up the tire no problem... just bleed it every place you can...

 

i know what ya mean but i dont need to bleed THIS one upside down though... its the billet clutch master.... i'll try the one about takin off tha caliper tomorrow and tryin that trick... anyone else know anything to try

 

wow... thats your 666th post.... weird

 

now i'm doomed to hb hell!!!! hope i'm not cursed by this damn thin lol!!!

 

are you sure all the air is out the system.. did you have someone help you bleed it. Cause unless you have speed bleeders the back brake is hard to bleed, hold, and tighten the screw without letting any air in the system.( specially cause you want to bleed the footbrake as well as the handbrake)....Oh there is two bleeder valves for the rear....One is in the front and the other is behind. I had to have the old lady help me....but then I said screw it....I had problems with one leaking a lil brake fluid out of the threads....so I looked up the company Goodridge and got the Speed Bleeders they manufacture. They are killer cause they have a little check valve inside that allows you to bleed the system by yourself. SImply thread in the screw valve..not all the way, then go to your brake...pump out as much fluid as you wish or until all air is out of the system, then tighten fitting.....simple, trouble free, minimizes any possible air getting into system, optimizes brake pressure. They are cheap to...something like fourteen or fifteen dollars for a pair....Totally worth it.

P.s......if the system is truly bled....and still no pressure, your master cylinder internals may have to be rebuilt. I had to do this to my stock rear master....The rebuild kit is not that expensive either. The rebuild kit basically is new internal seals that eventually wear out and do not build prerssure....It definately is something....

 

you still have air in it.

i usually bleed the **** out of it for a while, then i reverse bleed it like someone posted up above: push the caliper pistons all the way in so the fluid comes back through the system, then pump the brake back up to make the piston come back out, then do it again. I do that a few times and it removes all the air out and it solid as a rock.

i've had some that are a real bioch to bleed then all of a sudden they just bleed perfectly after 2 hours of trying.

 

yea i'll mess with it somemore tomrrow and try the reverse bleed methond.... fo the record i'm runnin dual calipers w/ the ho-hey setup so this one's hand only

 

Dual calipers....well since one caliper has two bleeder valves, does the dual calipers have four valves to bleed? Is this correct?

 

ya, either way you can still trap air. honestly 9 times out of 10 when i'm having problems it is a small air bubble in the banjo of the master cylinder. i've done both dual caliper and adapter and noticed it's both in the same place.

on the adapter you can check this real fast by pushing on the footbrake, good footbrake, crappy HB, then it's at the HB master.

on yours, i also take my master off, tap on it with a wrench and move it upside down and all around slowly while tapping on it to hopefully free up any bubbles that get stuck in an weird area. attach it back to the bike and do the reverse bleed first thing to push that bubble out.

 

I might have a little air trapped in my foot master like your saying.. My HB is perfect and the foot is pretty solid but I think it could be a lil better..I see that air could possibly run back up the line.. or get caught in master...

 

ok i've figured out my problem.... when i pump the brake(w/ everything closed) the caliper itself is moving.... what would caus this?

 

ok so heres what i'm noticing.... the piston doesn't seem like its holding steady pressure against the rotor. like theres not really much steady pressure coming from the piston once you let off... so i pulled the caliper off and noticed it only take using my middle finger and my thumb to compress the piston back into the rotor.... it shouldn't be that easy should it

oh and when i push w/ my foot the other caliper doesn't move (to the visible eye anyway) but the rear one (hooked to handbrake) moves about an 1/8 of an inch when you squeeze and let off....

 

the piston shouldn't have any presure when you let off.

 

un-bolt your caliper to the bracket and re-bolt it.

 

no but it should take a pretty good amount of pressure to compress it back into the caliper.... it was takin very little to do it

tried it like three times lol

 

i commented in the other thread.

the piston shouldn't be hard to move back into the caliper. it becomes hard when parts wear out and the piston has dirt on it. If your HB caliper is new, the piston is fresh and nice and will go back in with much more ease than an old caliper.

and the caliper should move, ti's a "floating" caliper style rear brake. That's why it rides on those greased pins. If it works correctly, it should float to center the caliper on the rotor when you push the brake, then when you let off the piston should go ito the caliper a little bit taking almost all pressure off the rotor. that's how it's "suppose" to work from the factory.