i have a stock but when i bought it and ran my friend he sucked me up .. so my dumbass tried messing with needle, air fuel and idle ... now my 50 is even slower ... i can still stunt it so im happy, but i want to be able to rock 3rd gear wheelies cause one i pick it up in 3rd it lacks the power to keep it up

any tips on needle settings ?
how many turns in or out on the a/f or the idle to get this stock 50 running

 

stock carb settings are typically the middle notch on the carb needle and 1.5 turns out on the air/fuel screw. the best way i've found to adjust the idle is by putting it in 1st and proping it up on the front wheel and kickstand to see how much (if at all) the clutch is engaged (by rear wheelspin at idle), anything that doesn't make the rear wheel turn fast (a crawl is ok), and doesn't make it stall is a decent setting but i usually put it somewhere in the middle. a little more idle for the winter is a good idea, but you don't want the bike to pull at all when it's sitting flat on the ground in gear.
B

 

ok my 50 is really start to ag me ..... ok i put my c-clip back on the middle notch but in order for me to even get my 50 to kick over i have to screw the air/fuel all the way in then tweak the idle til it kicks over .. and once i get it idling to a semi normal idle if i roll on the gas it will either bog then go or just bog out .. the only way i have got my 50 to run lately is to just turn the idle up kinda high ....

any suggestions ... i tried the 1.5 turns out and then messed with the idle but it wouldnt even kick over ......

 

Drain The Float Bowl Into Something
You Can See
See If You Have Any Bubble Looking Things In The Fuel
Sounds Like Water Maybe
Has The Bike Been Sitting Up For A While Or Did It Just Happen After You Messed With It?
You Want It To Idle Pretty Good So The Oil Pump Works
But Shouldnt Idle So High It Rolls When In Gear
THE NEEDLE ADJUSTMENT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE IDLE
JUST WHEN THE MAIN JET COMES ON
YOU MAY JUST HAVE SOME CRAP IN THE PILOT
NEXT TIME TRY WITH THE CHOKE HALF ON IF IT MAKES IT BETTER THEN ITS LEAN YOU MIGHT HAVE GOTTEN SOME CRAPPY GAS I WOULD SET EVERYTHING BACK TO NORMAL DRAIN THE FLOAT BOWL
AND SEE IF YOU GET SOME TRASH OR WATER IF YOU BOUGHT GAS RECENTLY AND YOU GET THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK SOMETIMES YOU GET A LIL WATER WITH YOUR FUEL

 

ok for anyone who is running a stock 50 can u tell me how many turns out your air/fuel is ... i just want my 50 to run correctly and not idle pissed high ..

all this happened after i moved the c-clip down 2 notches and messed with a/f screw .. im just trying to get it to stock settings .. i have it where its stock c-clep settings just need to figure out how to get the a/f and idle right

thx

btw..

 

(Every time I tryed to jet my bike I could have never quite get it right, untill OLDSCHOOL wrote this article on another fiddy sight, he is one on to it dude & my jetting has been perfect ever since I first read this post. I hope he doesnt mind me posting it here but it has helped me heaps)

I've done some research on the proper way of jetting your bike. this seems to lead to alot of guys on this site asking how to?? So heres what I came up with........

1) GET A PLUG READING: You need to run the bike in as tall of a gear as you can. and then kill the engine with the throttle wide open. Dont idle the engine, now remove the spark plug and look at the INSULATOR, the white porcelain part. as a rule it should look like coffee and cream( TAN ) If its Dark brown or sooty black your motor is running RICH. A gray ashy or white reading means its running LEAN. A plug reading only gives you an overall view of how the motor is running.
Do this with a new plug and make sure your bike is warm first.

2) THE MAIN JET: The carbs main jet affects how the carb works from half to full throttle After you have made your test run with the stock jetting. Install a main jet that is two sizes richer it will have a higher number than you removed. do your test run again, pay attention to how the bike feels. If your bike is reluctant to REV out like before, then you are too rich. Now go back and install the next smaller main jet keep doing this until you feel a noticable improvement in power once you have the main jet set go on to your pilot jet.

3) PILOT JET: The pilot jet has the greatest influence from idle to 1/4 throttle to test the pilot jet that is two sizes richer (just like the main jet) now go out and test it pay attention to how its feels when you pull out of the slow turns. If your bike is too rich it will feel sluggish and unresponcive untill you are past 1/4 throttle A perfectly tuned pilot jet will help your bike accelerate off the line and out of corners. Repete this test until you get one that feels the best.

4) THE AIR SCREW: How to adjust it, with a warm engine bring the bike up to a steady throttle setting (about 1800 rpms) get a friend to hold the throttle steady......Once the engine is running at fast idle. Turn the air screw in clockwise until the engine rpm drops. Then slowly turn the air screw out until engine rpms pickup.....Stop turning the air screw once the RPMs reaches its peak. Peak rpms is when the engine runs its cleanest and fastest. The most common air screw adjustment is from 1/2 a turn to 2 turns out. If your air screw is more than 2 turns out it is a warning that you should switch to the next LEANEST PILOT JET....If the engine has peaked before turning a 1/2 turn out. Then switch to the next largest Pilot jet.....

5) NEEDLE JET: Your carbs needle affects throttle settings from 1/4 to 3/4 turns lucky you dont have to replace the needle to adjust. Start out with the clip in the middle setting make a couple of runs, then change the clip down two positions. This is the quickest and fastest improvement you can make to the bikes jetting. Dont be afraid to move the clip up..LEANER or down..RICHER. You spend most of your time riding in this range.
Try all clip positions on the needle see what runs the best.... If you find your clip position at the very top or bottom. then you need to go back to your main jet and pilot jet and make a different setting...
When all is done your clip should be in one of the three middle notches.

Once you have your bike perfectly jetted hope the weather never changes..! Weather, Altitude, Gas quaulity and track conditions. will put demands on your jetting.....

What we need on this site I think is a how to do FORUM INDEX..

Well I hope this helps good luck with your bike........OLDSCHOOL

 

now that is some good info there
and hes right once you start doing mods to your bike
everytime the weather changes you will be tinkering with your jetting
best to find the happy medium
if you want low end you lose top end and vise versa you dont get both
mines hopped and when its cold its a lil bit harder to start cause the air is denser ive got it set for bottom end i mostly do dirttracking and motard
all you northern guys will see this immediately
down here in the south its not as bad or as cold
mine was set in febuary here so it runs just a lil lean in the summer
lite tan plug and in winter just a lil rich like dark moca
the happy medium took about an hour to get it set up so if your setting it up while its cold make it a lil rich so that in the summer it will be just a lil lean and you dont have to mess with it
or the easy way is get a xr 70 carb and intake and throw away those junk fifty carbs if you running a stk motor (this is on my stk91 z50) requires no jetting at all or mine didnt may need a lil tinkering up north for winter months
good post from old school

 

BUMP... is anyone able to make a sticky on this info here. Robbie aint u a mod here? are mods able to do this or is it a Shuggs only thing?

 

another thing to remember, even if they are all CRF 50's, and or XR50's, no two bikes are identical.... no 2 bikes are broken in identically, so they won't be the same. me, i think mine's pretty well broken in after only about 30 min of riding... i started it up, let it run till it got fully warmed up, then took it out and flogged it. loading the engine during break in makes the rings seat more perfectly, and letting it rev down in higher gears sucks engine oil into the cylinder, cleaning all the break in metal out of the crosshatch. i've changed the oil 3 times, and last time i changed it, there was hardly any metal in it. once it was broken in, i took the spark arrestor outta the muffler, and took off the top of the carb and raised the needle to the 5th notch, and adjusted the mixture screw to where it likes it. took it out for a ride, now it runs like a raped little ape. last night i took a dremel tool to the airbox, cutting the itty bitty intake pipe off of it, let this little thing get some air. this should work till i get some exhaust and other parts. :YEAH

 

before you ruin your stock parts
do a couple of searches on xrfiddy.com to find out whats works best

 

I tried that and my bike stalls out before i can even get the tire to slow down a little. Whats the deal?

 

Make sure your air filter is clean and LIGHTLY oiled. IF the filter is O.K. and you are set at the middle clip postion, air screw out 1/2 to 1 1/2, the bike should run semi descent if not you probably have dirt somewhere in the carb. Once the bike runs enough to idle it should be fairly eaisy to fine tune it. Just turn the air screw a little (1/8 turn at a time) and give it a couple of seconds for the engine to adjust to the new setting.