I have a 03 XR50 it is stock with a inner rotor kit and a uni filter it will bog down when I give it mor then 1/3 of the throttle and there is air in my fuel line

 

If carb is set up correct then sounds like a gummed up petcock/screen or bad fuel.

 

I think it has something to do with my CDI the guy that had it before me put the inner rotor kit in and had the stock CDI and the CDI that came with the rotor kit connected together so I took out the CDI that came with the rotor kit and just hooked up the stock CDI and now it wont even start but its getting spark to the plug and its getting fuel

 

Thats odd, if you're getting spark and fuel the only thing missing is air. Might want to start over with your carb adjustments. Another thing to consider is valve adjustment. The round plugs in head are covers for the fuel valve (up top) and the exhaust valve (below). They should have a clearance of .002 for stock.

 

I have not done any adjustments to the carb except the idle screw and I will have to check the valves it went from bogging out at high rpms to boggy at mid rpms and know it just won't start

 

turn off the choke

 

I tried it with the choke on, half way on, and off

 

my bike was doing the same thing. I had bad gasoline. its was 91 octane too. i drained the whole tank every last bit of it, new plug AGAIN, and it ran mint again after that. you may ofcourse have a diff. problem but thats what fixed mine.

 

I tried fresh fuel and it still won't work if the CDI is bad will it still get spark I am realy getting tired of messing with it and about ready to just sell it

 

I think if you are getting spark your CDI is ok. I bet it's a carb adjustment.

Maybe this will help.
http://www.ministothemax.com/hop_ups_carb_tuning.htm

A good starting point is idle screw 1 1/2 turns out and fuel/air screw 1/4 to 1/2 turns out. Both after turning all the way in righty tighty. Then warm up and adjust warm.

 

Ok I will try that but I never messed with the carb before it just started acting up, will the inner rotor kit work with the stock CDI or do I need to hook the one back up that came with the rotor kit

 

Well you said you were getting spark so hmmmm, good question. I'm still a bit puzzled about the stock and aftermarket CDI's being hooked together. IF it were me I think I might go with the one that came with the rotor kit as long as you get spark. Just go with what works.

I guess it's possible that the aftermarket rotor stuff put on is sparking but getting hot and slowly weakening losing voltage. That may be why someone hooked the stock one back in on top of it.

I dont guess you have a riding bud that would let you borrow his whole ignition to use and see whats up do you? If not, just really get in there and look at everything close. Study all connections and make sure everything is tight. I remember one time pulling my hair out adjusting the carb on a friends bike for days only to sit back, have a beer and study it and lo and behold, the intake was missing a bolt and air was getting in "off and on" like crazy as the motor vibrated changing the needed carb setting as it moved. I was glad to have found the problem but was pissed that I had fooled around with it that long without studying it good and noticing it right there in my face.

I feel your pain man. Wish I could be more help.

 

how clean is the air filter?

 

Ok guys I tried my buddies CDI and still no spark like my stock CDI so I hooked up the CDI that came with the rotor kit and it will start but runs like crap I reset the carb and every adjustment I made it did not make any difference I'm begining to think it is the inner rotor kit I'm also think of putting the stock rotor on to see if that will fix it

 

So can you talk to the guy you got it from?? Find out why he changed that stuff out anyways? No real performance gains to be had there. It may be that leaving the stock CDI wired with the new cause a rotor issue. Or maybe thats why he wired the stock one back in. Maybe thats why he sold it.

I would say trying a stock one that you know works is your best bet. If he replaced the stock one there is also that chance that the stock one you have (if he took off) is bad so make sure you have a good working unit.

I have a feeling that aftermarket rotor is crap.

 

I got it from my buddy he put a clear cover on it and didnt like the look of the stock rotor under the clear cover so he put the inner rotor on it and didnt realy know how to wire it thats why both CDI's was hooked up and I road it for 4 months like that with no problems
and last week it just started to cut out at top rpm like it had a rev limiter and now it just cuts out at low rpm like the carb needs to be adjusted but I tried adjusting the carb but there is no difference when I adjust it and it has a UNI filter on it, would it be ok if I remove the pitcock screen and just run a filter on the fuel line

 

Try that stock rotor and all. 4 Months may be all that that aftermarket rotor had in it. Unless it was a reputable brand, most ricer stuff is built cheap by lil' kids in sweat shops where the main focus is just to make it look as good as name brand, not quality.

You could do that sure but try the stock ignition stuff first. It's better IMO to be able to turn the gas off when needed. Make sure if you do it to use that filter.

 

Ya it's one of the cheap one's he bought it off of ebay for $35 I will try to put the stock one back on tomorrow but I don't have a flywheel puller

 

Just a thought, if your buddy pulled the stock one initially, maybe he has the tools you could borrow. If not, You can rent a flywheel puller at Auto Zone and probably Advanced Auto Parts as well. You just pay a deposit and get it back when you return.

 

I asked him yesterday to borrow the flywheel puller but he can't find it yet he just moved the other day