Prime Time29

Yeah obviously I am new to this so I got a question

I want to be able to do better stand up wheelies and I have had a lot of guys tell me that by changing the teeth on the front and rear sprocket that will give me more power and the bike will come of the ground easier and faster and I wont have to pull as much.

I also had a budy tell me to put a K&N filter and a power comander on it with a full exhasut but I aint got the extra 4 g's to do that.

I have a suzuki gsx-r 600 and I havent done anything to it as of yet because I dont know what type of combination to do with the sprockets and chain?

any advice would be greatly appreciated.

UFDKris

If you don't want to go to radical go -1 down in the front and 2up in the rear makes a huge diffrence on a stock bike + you can use your stock chain.

Prime Time29

okay but how much top end speed am I gonna loose from doing that?
and arent you supposed to change the chain out also when you drop or add teeth?

DoubleRJef

I think what he is saying is with that combination your stock chain will be the right length.

SHAWNDUNN00

if you only go 1 down/ four up you can still use the stock chain, also, yes it would give you more low end torque, and you will only lose about 10 miles per hour in the top.

I also have a 600, i have a full ti race exhaust, jetted, advanced and 1 down 2 up, and i am new as well. With the combination that i have it is not too hard to pull some good wheelies.

get a decent can, power commander, sprokets and you'll be fine

Rudy-eastcoastX

If you only go 1 or 2 up and 1 down the stock chain definately fits- so there is no need to change it (unless it's old). You really won't notice too much top end loss, but you will notice more down low in the rpm's.

Grobinder

i went 1 down on the front and 5 up on the rear and lost around 20mph off the top,, i topped out and the speedo read 183 but was told we were only going about 160 - 165,, oh, and the gas milage sucks after you make that kind of change

Highdiver

Don't buy from wherever you got those prices. Theres no way in hell that stuff cost that much, I did all that on mine for under 1k

cotton

I found this info very helpful- To get more holeshot off-the-line power, go up in the rear or down in front. To get more top end, go down in the rear or up in the front. Remember that 1 tooth in the front is equal to 2-3 teeth in the rear.

Now...to figure out how much increase in torque and rpm's, use this equation;

((new rear/ new front) X (old front/ old rear) -1) X 100 = percentage of change

So...if you have a 17/42 stock gearing on a GSXR750 and are considering going to a 16/44, the equation would look like this;

((44/16) x (17/42) -1) x100 = 11.31% torque increase

So at any revs in any given gear, you would see a power (torque) increase of 11.31% in this example. And if your bike was previously turning 5000 rpm in 6th gear at 65MPH, you would now see revs of 5565 rpm at the same speed. Remember that after a dramatic sprocket change, your speedo may also be off, so it's a good idea to check it.Going to smaller sprocket in the front also gives you slightly more wheelbase.But remember that very small front sprockets (14 or smaller) can cause problems with excessive chain stress/wear and chain drag on the swingarm.

If you are increasing the rear sprocket size suggest buying a 120 length to make sure you have enough room to cut the chain down and have proper slack.

Note: When you change sprockets, it may change your length requirements. For every 4 teeth you go up in the rear, you must increase the chain by 2 links (but you MUST increase links in pairs). Also note that "one link" means one side plate with 2 cross pins. So an x120 chain will have 60 side plates and 120 cross pins.








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