stupid painting question
01-20-2003, 04:13 PM
#1
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Location: MA
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stupid painting question
I'm gonna be giving my tail section to my local paint guy soon. If I wanted to sand it myself, what # corse should I start/finish with? I just like doing things myself. I know it has to be smooth so.....what # would you suggest? What do you suggest for taping off areas, (kind of tape)?
thanks
thanks
01-20-2003, 07:47 PM
#3
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Location: TOMS RIVER NJ
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yo painter
i have a custom paint shop,if your going to sand it you first have to de-wax it ,,,,,,,use wax and silicone remover,have one wet with the remover and one dry to follow after than wet sand it with 600 grit ,never use 240 youll see all the sand marks,and foir tape out i would use 3m fine line good luck any more questions just email me...............if you dont do it right,it aint worht doing at all good luck man
01-21-2003, 01:05 AM
#5
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Actually, if you know what kind of paint (or primer, really) you're going to use, get the directions that come with it.
When we did my friends bike, the directions said to use 320.. not 400-600. The primer has to have something to stick to. Besides, you have to wetsand the primer anyway.
The paint isn't really the basecoat (unless you're painting matte w/ a hardener in the paint), it's the clearcoat. That's where all the magic happens.
Anyway, to sand it, just start with some 220. Once you seem to have gotten most of the 'shiney' out of it (the existing clear coat finish), hit it all with some 320 until it seems pretty uniform. Don't worry about getting the paint off, you just want it uniformly scuffed down (and the clearcoat off. And don't listen to the jerky nuts that told you to go with 400/600.
When we did my friends bike, the directions said to use 320.. not 400-600. The primer has to have something to stick to. Besides, you have to wetsand the primer anyway.
The paint isn't really the basecoat (unless you're painting matte w/ a hardener in the paint), it's the clearcoat. That's where all the magic happens.
Anyway, to sand it, just start with some 220. Once you seem to have gotten most of the 'shiney' out of it (the existing clear coat finish), hit it all with some 320 until it seems pretty uniform. Don't worry about getting the paint off, you just want it uniformly scuffed down (and the clearcoat off. And don't listen to the jerky nuts that told you to go with 400/600.
01-21-2003, 07:40 AM
#6
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Location: TOMS RIVER NJ
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jerky nuts
yo,direction reader if you read what he wrote he didnt say he was going to prime,if his stuff is in nice shape he doesnt have to ,,,,,o yea and you use 200 and ill use 600 wet dry,because with todays products you really only have to scuff. good luck
01-21-2003, 08:49 PM
#9
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Location: denver, co
Age: 45
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Originally posted by smb123
Actually, if you know what kind of paint (or primer, really) you're going to use, get the directions that come with it.
And don't listen to the jerky nuts that told you to go with 400/600.
Actually, if you know what kind of paint (or primer, really) you're going to use, get the directions that come with it.
And don't listen to the jerky nuts that told you to go with 400/600.
I've seen madmasons shop, and his work. top notch all the way. i'd listen to him if i were you.
Last edited by streetweapon; 01-21-2003 at 08:56 PM.
01-21-2003, 10:01 PM
#11
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Location: MA
Age: 46
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I've seen your bike a few times. Nice and grey all ova. My **** is still in brand new condition. Although I know it won't last long, I'd like to try to keep it lookin shweeeet. In other words no spray paint(yet). Sorry for sounding like a snobby biatch.
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