well, i figured it out. it took me about an hour of staring at my rear brake assembly and drinkin a few, but i got it damnit.

in my opinion, its a design flaw by Honda that has been goin on since the first 50 was made. what we have now would work great if we were trying to stop a bike that was goin in reverse at 35 mph. but that isnt the case is it.

I'll try to explain this as simple as i can. it may be hard to imagine or comprehend at first, but u will understand when all is said and done. Look in the pic at the part labled "brake cam". look at the direction that it turns and applys force to the brake shoes. the bottom brake shoe is getting pushed toward the drum faster than the top one due to the fact that the cam is pushing on it closer to the area marked "pivot point". it may only be a half inch u say.... well a half inch is enough to screw it all up. this would work sweet if the wheel was spinning the opposite direction because the shoe that is being forced into the drum first is opposing it.

now what we want to do is change the way that all works and force the top shoe into the drum first (since we are going forward). to achieve this, all u have to do is grind a small amount of material off the bottom shoe (marked in the pic) so it will take longer for it reach the drum. the shoes are interchangable top to bottom so make sure u put the shoe with the most meat on it up top.

let me know your results. if it still aint great just take a little more material off the bottom shoe. this works. i promise. :YEAH

 

I live about 10 minutes south of Cleveland and wonder where u guys ride at?? My buddy and I both have CRF 50s and lookin for a new place to rock em'......

 

That makes sense because i had my front brake on the wrong side one time when i put my forks on and the brake didnt work for **** going forward, so i put it back to the correct side and it worked good again. I didnt know they messed up the rear brake. I'll have to try that. But my front brake is acutally starting to suck too so i might need to clean the pads on them too.

 

Hey Fab

Instead of grinding the surface down, wouldn't the reverse be true, such as placing a shim or epoxying a piece of metal or plastic (Teflon???) of a certain thickness to the opposite shoe? Just wondering. Brilliant observation on your part though.

 

sure that would do the same thing, but seeing that it is conastantly being rubbed against, it might wear out or fall off there. but in theory it should work the same. give it a try, let me know how it works!!

 

just went out and did this, and it works great!!!!

 

i did it as well..took me awhile to figure how much to grind off..and dont inhale the dust..felt sick afterwards..lol..nice write up bud. its really worth doing this mod.

 

yer right! i just went 35mph in reverse and did the illest endo...umm...wheelie...
naw seriously..it makes sense...i'll hafta try it out

 

How much you grind down? i grinded about 1/16" to 1/8" but it dont work any better...

 

that should be plenty. did u grind the top one or the bottom one? make sure the pad with the most meat is at the top and the grinded one is on the bottom.

 

That's how i got it. Maybe the pads got dirty or something...Or maybe i didnt notice the difference...I'll go try riding it again.

 

now i gotta learn coasters all over again i can lock the tire in 3rd easy now, before i had to stand on the pedal to try and skid it.

i only took off about a 1/16", hardly any at all, but it made a big difference. thanks man

 

hahah ****in great aint it?? its like riding a whole new fiddy. those of u who dont have this problem have no idea how exciting this mod is.

 

no ****, I never thought to check it out cause mine locks easy as hell at any speed, I'll have to do it for ***** and giggles just to see if I can get it to brake even better. ON mine if your haulin pretty good and lock it up (I've been doing this on a regular basis since I put street tires on it) you have to hold it down pretty hard to keep it locked or it will skip and reek havoc on my chain and sprocket, sounds harsh, I might try welding some small flat strap to it and see how that works. Anybody got spare brake parts in case it doesnt?

 

took me about an hour of practice to get used to it, i can 12 now without flippin. just tap it and it comes right back down. before this, once you got that far back, youd have to mash it down and it wouldnt always bring you back.


fab- would this help the front brakes also you think? the brakes are on the opposite side as the rear, so would you have to grind the top shoe down?

 

it would be exactly the same for the front. dont change a thing.

 

bump. just for NaGS. we need to sticky this somehow

 

is there a good way to keep them from glazing or different pads that are better? if i roll about 4 endos in a row, my brakes are just about shot. gettin 50 footers after lots of practice, but i gotta sand my pads once a week

 

cut some vent lines, just like how disk brakes have the holes in the rotor, just bake some small angled lines in the pads. it helps a little bit, but danm you street guys need disk brakes!

 

hurricane, did u try my mod? if not i suggest u do, u will be suprised of the results