gues what i cut the cap outlet off already hours befor i read it aaaaaaaaarrrrhgg!!!!!
still maybe i can put a nice angle to it right on the end paralell
to the gound at 12 o clock
maybe its easyer to use a strap in stead off welding the bracket back on?
thanks for all the info and help

so with the welder used
mines a arch welder can i get S/S rods for that?

 

making angle to it would surely be a lot of hassle and harder to do?? and pointless? im gonna get my dad to cut my exhaust down as he has proper bench saws etc to cut it straight with. keep meaning to do it but havent got round to it yet.

 

seen a guy on here with a angle set in and it looked wicked and seeing as i cut it already its gota be done it gives more clearance to the ground
my cuttings done with a very specal tool


















hack saw haha

 

Compared to the other way yeah. Kinda nice sound.

Let me know how it turns out

 

whats a cheater peg?

 

Look between the left peg and the tag and you can see it. It's a peg mounted closer to the rear to stand on.

 

this is the only way to get a quiet chopped stocker.

on my latest pipe I cut 3 inches out of the inlet part of the can and I also managed to get another 2 inches off of the pipe right before it goes into the can.

thing sounds like a sewing machine:YEAH

 

I cut about a foot out of my stock can.

Chop the pipe just in front of the footpeg mount, just the outer core. Pull all the guts out with the rear of the pipe.

Now ya got to do some measurin. There are four pipes stickin out of the end part of the pipe. KJ954 posted a pic of this in another thread, I think it was called choppin stockers.

You are gonna have to cut the pipe outer piece again, about four inches from the tip. What you need to do is cut it so that the fourth and longest baffle gets jammed into the header portion of the pipe. Kinda confusing to say, but if it was apart in front of u it might make sense. This way, your pipe is essentially two chambers, instead of the stock three.

Just as quiet as stock.

 

Hey Guys I just picked up an F4 a few days ago after having a gixxer so its still stock. Anyway I wanted to ask about the front end and making it firmer. I dont mind the shitty forks for stoppies and they were feeling ok, however they just dive too quickly on the initial braking bite, so was thinking of over filling the ****ers with the thickest fork oil I can find to dampen the action a bit. Anyone else done anything to the stock front end to make it feel better?? Also what kinda dampers are people running on their f4's?

Here's some pics from the first ride on it. Love how instantly smooth these bikes feel!! :YEAH Hanging to gear her out and get **** ready but got to wait to get it passed and registered for the road. ****ers cant get me in till the 18th so have to wait till then. Just want start stunting it properly.

 

Put some gear oil in those tubes.That'll make em rock solid.hehe

 

thanks guys u are a inspiration
i hav started with a pipe to day and sorta taking it all in and doing a combination of everything i hope it works out gota striaghten my cuts out that i made and practice a little welding before i start my bodge job

 

ok
heres mine not finished but getting there
hope it helps people if they wana try
i cut both ends off and kept all 3 cambers
used a hack saw to take the end cap off/out let off
and left the internal out let pipe as long as pos
and cut the other end as well both ends were cut just on the main body side of the welds
so with both ens off then cut/grind the hanger off



i chose my size as the width of a A3 sheet of papper
witch also gives u straight end to scribe into the steel
the edge off my cut was on the end cap side of a small box stamped into the can
near the honda logo



also havent had to mess with the internal pipe work:YEAH
except u got heat and bend the out let pipe down a little
heated mine with BBQ coals and a air line



i bent it till there was 3mm gap between the 2 main pipes



a good find was the way the end cap is made it comes apart into 2
place it over a off cut from the chromed can just i skin and hit it out
there a drain hole as well that help with leverage



and u can take out whats left of the old out let pipe and re use it latter to give u a gas tight 3 cambered seal we all hope



the hole is off center and helps to line up when u re assemble it
u place the this piece back over the internal out let pipe witch u bent a little with some hamering and adjusting
and weld round the internal out let pipe as it was before u grond/cut it off
then put the chromed S/S end cap over the top use a rubber hammer
should if ur cuts where straight weld it up with stainless steel rods

started welding it back up today i gota clean up my weld with a grinder
file and polish cos i s**k at welding i got lot of repect for thos who can
to be continude:

 

dam, you really put some time into that. Looks good. I just eliminated a chamber and jammed the pipes together, was easier.

 

thanks mate
longest part was using the hack saw
and straightning the cuts out

 

k its on and works
so now the loudest thing is the cam chain can u make a manual adjuster out of the honda one?

 

man... that came out sweet. Nice work

 

thanks for all the tips mate managed to keep all 3 cambers :YEAH

but dont look to close spent along time grinding the welds
home brew 12 bar next any advice?

 

Copy Freestyle ingenuity's design.

 

Wait till you see mine, the outlet is aimed upward......oops.

 

I don't get why you gotta touch the outlet side of the pipe?? and mess about bending the inner pipe??

I cut the header pipe end off my stock can today and will cut the main body about 5" off and then just weld it back together and move the bracket seems no hassle at all but is that all I need to do?? seems like it to me??