which clutch
 

my clutch is shot n my 04 636

should i replace it with the stock plates springs and all or go with an aftermarket one?

Re: which clutch
 

I hear stock is the best

Re: which clutch
 

+1 on the STOCK parts :2cents

Re: which clutch
 

alright well do i need both friction plates and steels or just the friction plates they have 2 kits. everyone ive talked to said it should cost about 150. the 15o kit has only friction plates not steels. is it that the steels dont wear out or what.

Re: which clutch
 

..........

Re: which clutch
 

Replace steels and frictions together at the same time.



I would also recommend saving your old steel plates. They might come in handy in the future for adjusting the stack height.

If you want to make a homemade clutch tool for removing the basket, save a couple friction plates also. I've bolted together a steel and friction plate and used them to hold the basket in place when torqueing the hub down.

Works like a champ.

Re: which clutch
 

take the clutch out and inspect. if the steels are not damaged or warped you can re-use, no problem. I have also used 600-800grit sandpaper to clean up the glazing on the steels as well. I would replace the springs.:2cents

Re: which clutch
 

here is my deal. i have to et this done this weekend. i do not have 270 dollars to spend on this i have about 150

friction steels springs gasket-275$ oem

frictioon springs-170 oem

Friction steels gasket and springs-155 barnett brand

which do i go with? its really a decision between # 2 and 3

Re: which clutch
 

Holy crap. They sure are proud of those clutch parts.

If it was me, this is what I would do (in order of importance)

1. Replace with stock friction plates
2. Replace with new springs
3. Replace steel plates
4. Replace pressure plate and bearing
5. Replace basket


So financially speaking, I would get the stock frictions and springs first.

Like Idle-Hands suggested, if the steels are not warped and damaged, then go ahead and reuse them. Just lightly scuff off any glazing with a fine grit sandpaper.

Hope that helps some.

Re: which clutch
 

btw I say it in every clutch thread


what did you do wrong to cook your clutch? How many miles do you have on your bike? A clutch will EASILY last 20k+, and should last 30k+..

If you say burned it up doing burnouts or somthing, try riding your bike around normally for a week, no burnouts, no wheelies.. It might come back to 100% perfect..


I burned my f4i clutch up at 14k miles, it slipped so bad it wouldn't wheelie, it would go straight to redline in 6th gear...
I drove it around normally for a week, it came back, and started grabbing fine

now 2 years later, 33k on my f4i motor, still stock clutch :hello :yeah

Re: which clutch
 

[quote=joe98;3618626]here is my deal. i have to et this done this weekend. i do not have 270 dollars to spend on this i have about 150

friction steels springs gasket-275$ oem

frictioon springs-170 oem

Friction steels gasket and springs-155 barnett brand

which do i go with? its really a decision between # 2 and 3[/quote]

u probably wont like the barnett springs go with the oem.

Re: which clutch
 

[quote=Towlieee;3618887]btw I say it in every clutch thread


what did you do wrong to cook your clutch? How many miles do you have on your bike? A clutch will EASILY last 20k+, and should last 30k+..

If you say burned it up doing burnouts or somthing, try riding your bike around normally for a week, no burnouts, no wheelies.. It might come back to 100% perfect..


I burned my f4i clutch up at 14k miles, it slipped so bad it wouldn't wheelie, it would go straight to redline in 6th gear...
I drove it around normally for a week, it came back, and started grabbing fine

now 2 years later, 33k on my f4i motor, still stock clutch :hello :yeah[/quote]




it has 24000 on it now but when i bought it, it had 9000 and they told me the clutch is gonna need to be replaced soon. SO.....

i never reeally had a problem with it but in the past two weeks it has gone from only slipping in 1st to slipping in all the gears right to redline and only creeps up to speed.

i talked to some mechanics and they said go with the barnett so thats what i did.

why wont i like the springs?

Re: which clutch
 

ive heard this, and that, about clutch plates. maybe im just not a picky rider, but i dont mind aftermarket fiber plates. I soak them in oil for 24hrs before putting them in, then rough up both sides of the steel plates, and throw it together...never had an issue.

Shit.... ive been in a bind at the track with mx bikes before, ripped clutches out, threw them in the dirt, and roughed them up that way, cleaned them off the best i could, and threw them back in the bike to make it through another moto. but then again, that was with 2 strokes that have a sealed tranny.

Re: which clutch
 

Stock is supposed to be the best buy I never had any problem with the barnett set I had in my 750 I do agree that if they burn up it is something you did. While I was learning to race on my ten I completely burned a set up trying to slip a clutch launching. I replaced them and didn't slip anymore and made hundreds of passes without anymore wear.

Re: which clutch
 

i burned my stock clutch up at about 24k being squidly, replaced it with Barnett clutch and love it....

Re: which clutch
 

[QUOTE=joe98;3620124]it has 24000 on it now but when i bought it, it had 9000 and they told me the clutch is gonna need to be replaced soon. SO.....

i never reeally had a problem with it but in the past two weeks it has gone from only slipping in 1st to slipping in all the gears right to redline and only creeps up to speed.

i talked to some mechanics and they said go with the barnett so thats what i did.

why wont i like the springs?[/QUOTE]



The springs are heavier duty, which makes the 'clutch grab harder' but also makes the clutch lever harder to pull..


You can reuse springs.. I don't know if the books recommend it, but I've done it many times on quads/dirt bikes..
I hear a lot of times people mixing parts on quads, using barnett fibers with factory steels and springs..