stoppykid

should of bought a honda

Lb3

If it is a high pitched semi quiet tick it is the valves. The cam chain doesnt tick, it makes a grinding rattling sound. If it is a loud tick that you can hear standing 5 ft away from the bike when its idling on the kickstand it is a rod bearing or an exhaust leak. Unless you have ****ed with the headers before it started than its probably not an exhaust leak.

A spun rod bearing doesnt really sound like a knock, but a loud tick. Once it gets real bad, then it will start sounding more like a knock. Once a rod bearing spins, it will just get worse and there isnt much you can do to fix it. If you catch it early enough you can just replace the mains and rod bearings but it wont last a long time.

750s are the easiest gixxer motors to blow up.

kj

$200?

you can get a cct for $45

hermans

how do u spin a rod bearing?? from beatin on the motor or just cuz suzukis are crap??

stooda929

put some thicker oil in it. the bike will run a little slower than normal i did it with my 750 it lasted for a long time after that. oh yeah you wont hear that tickin noise anymore.lol

Lb3

suzuki's just have a shitty designed oil sump. It doesnt work for wheelies at all. If you have gauges on your bike, just do some slowrolls around a lot and watch your oil light.. it constantly goes on and off the whole time. The oil light only comes on when there is ZERO oil pressure. It doesnt come on when there is low pressure. So, its safe to say that if you are rocking a balanced wheelie and the oil light is going on and off that you are running anywhere from extremely low to zero oil pressure.

Now imagine running no oil pressure for hours on end in a lot, or even worse freeway wheelies. Granted you arent rocking them that tall on the highway but when you rock it back for a high speed scrape without pulling the clutch in or rocking it way back to slow down, you are turning all those RPMS with no oil. Gixxer motors are built pretty loose from the factory and they dont take that kind of abuse for very long before a bearing spins.

Once a bearing spins, it wears down, metal against metal until the bearing is completely eaten away by friction, once that happens with every revolution the crank beats on the rod making that knock sound. After a while the cap breaks and throws the rod through the side of the block or wedges somewhere and locks the motor up.

There is a solution to the oil problem.. search around and you'll find it.


And btw, what stooda said up there about thicker oil does work for lot bikes. It doesnt work for street bikes, but if you are just putting around under 4k rpms, a motor with a spun bearing full of slick 50 will still run for another month or two depending on how hard you beat it. slick 50 is bad for your clutch and the motor in general.. but if its knocking.. who gives a ****.. its ****ed anyways.

Willybeen

i found ur problem and it ends in 'zuki..... buy a honda... lol or a kawi... (damn did i say that?)

cam chain tensioner....
check the valve clearances....
take it to a shop and have them tell you what is exactly wrong with it...

hermans

good looking man....i guess im saving up for a honda

Dead Game

Cam chain tensioners are tha gayest thing in the werld as well as stretching a cam chain

DENIRO600

I Have Taken The Cam Tensioner Apart And Rewound The Spring To Make It Stronger. Worked For A Summer Or So. Then It Jumped A Tooth On The Crank So It Was Running Retarded. Junk. Get A Honda.

TheRomanSF415x

damn on this site ppl only complain about their gsxr's and in those threads ppl say i dont give a **** i still loves mine.
not so sure if i still want one lol.
but they look so niiiice !!

not_me

100% right, unless you hear it always make the same noise. You should hear it tick up with the RPM's til about 6k and they you may not hear it anymore. Also, it does it more when cold then hot.

Cam chain tensioners are imfamous for dying on the 750's, but so are the con rod bearings so be forewarned. I spun a bearing coming home from NYC last summer and had three baseball sized holes when it was finallly over.

Get a manual cam chain tensioner and set it. You will never have that problem again. If you go with an automatic, that is Suzuki, you will replace it again. Years 01-03 are majorly affected by this.

EDIT = After reading the whole post I wanted to add that I too went to Honda after my Suzuki experience. I love Suzuki, but you cannot beat a 900 ever if you are stunting... Plus, I am gaabage anyway so I need all the help I can get.

my small .02

Camo Mike dot com

Danger_Dave

so

what is it about honda thats so great ?

f4rider

why does everyone keep saying CCT? A loose cam chain makes a very distinctive rattle sound, not ticking, that does not go away when the engine warms up.

f4rider

they like to be stunted

Ando

^^And they loooovvee to rev:YEAH

got_ink123

The reason they make that noise is because they're gsxrs... they all do it. I own one too mine did it since 0 miles right off the lot... unless it sounds ridiculous then don't worry about it. CCT's are loud as **** and the sound will make you not want to turn it on again for sure... sounds like a 1940 steam engine or someshit, that's when you want to look at it. im mean how bad is this ticking? Is it like you have to put ur ear towards it to hear or is does it sound like a coffee cup full of screws taped onto one of those rabbit ******?

Had
One
Never
Did
Again

Continues to
Break
Religiously

got_ink123

• GSXR motors clink clank until the thermostat opens up and lets water into the motor about 170F if i'm correct (earlier models)
• If you had a lot of mileage you could be looking at a fucked cam lobe or mashed valve stem from a life of oil starvation and overrevving.
• if it's a light tap like a clicking noise don't stress it until it stops making the click. Valve lash TIGHTENS as the engine wears in, because the valves pound into the seats in the head
• EFI injectors make a natural loud tick in low rpms.

kj

A ticking sound that goes away after warm up is an exhaust leak from a loose header bolt.... I've had it happen on 3 different bikes.

It goes away after the copper gasket expands, sealing the small leak.


If you let if go for a while the tick will get worse and it won't go away after it warms up.


On my old stunter I replaced the bad cct AND tightened the header bolts and it was like I put in a brand new engine...

That's pretty creative.... not very accurate though.

Wowtah

if u let it run low on oil even just a little id say the crank. ive done it 5 times now