A few months back I locked my motor up on my f4i...So I purchased a used minty motor its running great but the cam chain tensioner is starting to rattle...seems very common????...My old motor has a manual cam chain tensioner on it...should I swap it out for that or keep purchasing stock tensioners?

 

swap the manual one

 

In doing that how do I set it up...how do I know how tight to tighten it without messing anything up?

 

I dont know mutch about hondas, but mostly(defenetly with suzukis) you'll have to take off the oil pressure hose(should be on top of the tensioner and should be only hose going to tensioner). Then you put a little(but long) screwdriver in this hole, push(you should be able to hear few click's) and push it again while moving your bike in 6'th gear(or lift up your rear end and someone else spins your rear wheel in gear while you push) and thats it.

 

not even close to the same design on hondas. I've never done that on any of the suzuki's i've worked on either...so idk what bike you're talking about.

Put the manual one on your new bike. Turn the bolt with our fingers til you feel some tension on the bolt. Lock the lock nut, start the motor and slowly rev to 5k rpms. If it's noisy then it needs a little more tension. I usually just use this method to slowly tighten it until the noise stops about 5k rpms. Once you get to that point there is no need to go further.

That has worked well for me. There is a way to check certain slack in the cam chain and all that when setting it, but i don't know of anyone that adjusts them that way.

 

Thats how its done. I put mine on a year ago. about 4500 miles and havent touched it ,and its still running silently.

 

put the manual cct on dont move wheel when theres not a cct in the bike. run it in until you feel it touch something start the bike let it warm up hold the cct so it doesnt spin out while its running. back it out until you here the chattering run it in until the noise goes away turn 1/4 3/8 turn in tighten lock nut done how ive done it to five bikes not a prob. out of one of them

 

This has to be the most ignorant **** i have ever heard. I think i lost IQ points just reading it.

 

haha I didn't even read past suzuki. what the hell is he talking about oil line going to the cct. and clicks while rolling in 6th gear.. you want to lift the rear and not let it spin at all while you have the cct out.there are many threads how to do it.. ya need a elbow for a 1/4 inch driver.. some long extentions and a chopped allen wrench taped into the appropriate sized socket. its not hard to do just tight quarters.

 

Has someone here even seen the suzuki's cct? I have done this many times with k1-k5 original cct's and theres no other better way to do it. One wise track rider and good mechanic teached me. Know am just very courious how are the original honda cct's built(dont mean the manual ones). I just know that they are made from "plastic looking metal", thats why everyone need's to replace them.

 

i was a bit of a ***** when i tightened mine down, after about 4k miles i need to retighten. It was way easier than i thought it'd be. i did it on my 636, i got another one sittin here for the f4i.

 

So, i was doing some research and i found F4i's cct. http://www.gdlcycles.com/asp1/modeta...emID=248-13460
If thats what you're talking about, then it nothing like suzuki's. And I found manual cct for suzuki's too. http://www.bigccracing.com/shop/prod...p?idproduct=17
The polt on this last picture is not original as you can assume. Originaly there is hose. This is the original GSX-R600/750 K4-K5, R1000 K3-K4 cct http://dragbike.ee/pood/image.php?f=f8078d6c94885fe_1.jpg

 

oh ya, good catch, make sure you let the bike warm up before testing. It will make a difference. Also, i think 1/4 turn of that bolt might be a little much after you feel tension, but that's just me. I'd rather go on the loose side and have to re-tighten in a couple thousand miles then stretch out a cam chain and weaken it.

I've worked on them and have no idea what you're talking about. Hondas are a pneumatic style (oil) or spring. Spring is on the f4i. They usually fail by stretching the cam chain all the way out and the tensioner no longer reaches the chain guide. They also wear out the springs so the vibrations at certain rpms cause the tensioner to get pushed back inside its body and therefore being loose.


Ya, better to do that than to stretch a cam chain out and cause it to weaken.

 

Awsome thanks guys!!! I've had 3 of the stock cct and they keep doing the same damn thing!!! I'm gonna put this manual one on!!!!

Thanks for the help!!!

 

lol just put your bike in neutral, no worrys about spinning the rear wheel