Fiddy FAQ 101: The Basics
11-17-2004, 09:19 AM
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Fiddy FAQ 101: The Basics
Fiddy F.A.Q - The Basics
2000 - 2005 XR/CRF50
By Derek Fugate (Fuscat on Stuntlife.com)
11/17/04
Model Year Information:
2000 – 2003 the model was XR50.
2004 & 2005 it was changed to a CRF50.
The bikes models are the same bike mechanically, the only difference between them being the plastics, graphics and seat pan. Also the XR kickstart lever has a rubber grip piece on it. The plastics are totally transferable from one to the next. The only difference being that the tail on the crf has three screws on the very back of the tail that secure it to the seat pan, the xr only utilizes one. Some modification will be required. (Plastics info per Mitter here on stuntlife
)
It should be noted that graphic kits should only be used with the model of plastics they were designed for.
What should I do to my fiddy first??
Well that depends! The stock bike was manufactured for an 88lb youth sized rider. First step should probably be to “supersize� it. First off you will probably need adult suspension and controls.
Rear Shock and/or spring. This usually comes down to your budget. $25-$50 for a replacement spring for your stock shock. (Comes in different weight ratios from 120#’s – 200#’s plus) or $100+ for a complete aftermarket adjustable shock.
Front fork springs and new fork leg bushings. Not completely needed at least not at first but very nice to have! Depending on your weight and your abuse level the stock fork springs may start to compress and cause a rougher ride or bottom out on you over bumps & jumps. As you ride it more and more you will more then likely start to notice “slop� from the stock setup. This is where the fork leg lowers start to slide around in the uppers causing loose movement between the two. Bushings will cure this problem and keep things nice and tight for you. Most people prefer the Delrin bushings. You can usually find the fork springs and bushings and rear shock spring together as a package on ebay and save yourself a couple extra bucks.
Handle Bar Setups. Most adults end up switching out the stock bar setup for an aftermarket version to increase leg room and make for a more comfortable ride. This can become real complicated as there are 180 different setups out there and each person has to make up there own mind on what they want. You can buy a complete kit from most major parts manufactures that comes with every single piece you need right out of the box. Or you can piece together your own setup part by part by your own preferences.
Regardless of manufacturer these are the basic components you will need:
A) Handle Bars
B) Bar Clamp / Upper Triple
C) Throttle Assembly (billet or plastic, may or may not have integrated front brake perch)
D) Front Brake Lever Perch (for right hand side of handle bar)
E) Longer Throttle & Front Brake Cables (the stock throttle cable will work with bars that are 7� rise and under depending on how tall your clamp is off of the forks)
F) Carburetor Cap (if using longer throttle cable)
G) New Grips for 7/8� bars
There are two main differences in clamp/bar setups to consider. And you need to decide before you buy as the bars & clamps are completely different. For a BMX setup the clamp will be narrow usually less then 3 inches wide where the bar actually fits into the clamp. For MX the clamp will be usually wider then 3 inches more around 4-5 inches in width where the bar actually firs into the clamp. Also the bars themselves will be very different.
A) BMX Bar Setup: Basically the bars are setup just like BMX bicycle bars. Usually taller and narrower type bars. Usually have a welded in cross support bar (as in its all one piece)
B) MX Bar Setup: Basically this is just like motocross bars on regular sized dirt bikes. The bars are usually not very tall off the clamp, and usually pretty wide from grip to grip. Most have a clamped on type removable cross bar support.
As mentioned before, and this applies to all parts for the 50 scene, there are tons of aftermarket parts manufacturers. It all comes down to your own personal taste on what you like. Some parts may be better then others. Most usually have at least a couple subtle physical if not mechanical differences, but it usually boils down to personal opinion. If something is just not a good part you can usually find info on it by searching for it, more then likely someone else has already had issues with it.
I’ve got my bars & my suspension, now what?
Go Ride It!! J Seriously though the next step is pretty much up to you.. Maybe now is a good time to figure out what you want to do with it. Stunt it, just ride it around on the streets, ride dirt & trails with it.. Mini-MX etc etc. The possibilities are only as limited as your wallet and your desire.
Quick Facts:
Engine: 49cc 3hp
Bore & stroke: 39.0mm x 41.4mm
Compression: 10.0:1
Transmission: Three speed auto clutch
Chain: #420
Front Sprocket: 14tooth
Rear Sprocket: 37tooth
Front Tire: 2.5� through 3� x10 (always exceptions)
Rear Tire: 2.5� through 3� x10 (always exceptions)
Bike Weight: 104lbs
Wheelbase: 36�
Ground Clearance: 5.8�
Bike Length: 51.4�
Bike Width: 23�
Fuel: Unleaded
Fuel Capacity: .8 gallons (including .2 reserve)
Oil: 10w40 4stroke
Oil Capacity: .6 quarts when changing .8 when disassembled
Spark Plug: NGK CR6HSA normal climate or NGK CR5HSA for cold climate
Plug Gap: .24-.28 inches (.60mm - .70mm)
Chain Free Play: 9/16� – 1� (15-25mm)
Used Service Length: 39.3 Inches MAX (997mm) (measured between a span of 77 pins)
Stock Carb Jet: #58
Additional Jets: #60 (Honda P/N: 99101-1870600)
#62 (Honda P/N: 99101-1870620)
#64 (Honda P/N: 99101-1870640)
Useful Links:
http://www.xtremeracing50s.com
http://www.pitposse.com
http://www.50ccracing.com
http://www.fast50s.com
http://www.sik50s.com
http://www.bbrmotorsports.com
http://www.fiveoracing.com
http://www.jokermachine.com
http://www.subwaymx.com/products/xr50graphics.html
http://www.chaparral-racing.com
http://www.rideltd.com
http://temeculamotorsports.com
http://www.chilli50s.com
http://www.minibikeoutlet.com/
http://www.dratv.com
http://holeshotm.home.att.net
http://www.waldochracing.com
http://www.precisionracing.net/pitbike/
http://www.pimped50s.com/
http://www.hondatrailbikes.com
http://www.ministothemax.com
http://www.danosbikeshop.com/
http://www.sonicjay.com/m50m/how-tos.htm
http://www.pitracermagazine.com/subscribe.htm
http://www.bakerbroz.com/baker/xrparts.htm
http://www.50stunt.com
2000 - 2005 XR/CRF50
By Derek Fugate (Fuscat on Stuntlife.com)
11/17/04
Model Year Information:
2000 – 2003 the model was XR50.
2004 & 2005 it was changed to a CRF50.
The bikes models are the same bike mechanically, the only difference between them being the plastics, graphics and seat pan. Also the XR kickstart lever has a rubber grip piece on it. The plastics are totally transferable from one to the next. The only difference being that the tail on the crf has three screws on the very back of the tail that secure it to the seat pan, the xr only utilizes one. Some modification will be required. (Plastics info per Mitter here on stuntlife
) It should be noted that graphic kits should only be used with the model of plastics they were designed for.
What should I do to my fiddy first??
Well that depends! The stock bike was manufactured for an 88lb youth sized rider. First step should probably be to “supersize� it. First off you will probably need adult suspension and controls.
Rear Shock and/or spring. This usually comes down to your budget. $25-$50 for a replacement spring for your stock shock. (Comes in different weight ratios from 120#’s – 200#’s plus) or $100+ for a complete aftermarket adjustable shock.
Front fork springs and new fork leg bushings. Not completely needed at least not at first but very nice to have! Depending on your weight and your abuse level the stock fork springs may start to compress and cause a rougher ride or bottom out on you over bumps & jumps. As you ride it more and more you will more then likely start to notice “slop� from the stock setup. This is where the fork leg lowers start to slide around in the uppers causing loose movement between the two. Bushings will cure this problem and keep things nice and tight for you. Most people prefer the Delrin bushings. You can usually find the fork springs and bushings and rear shock spring together as a package on ebay and save yourself a couple extra bucks.
Handle Bar Setups. Most adults end up switching out the stock bar setup for an aftermarket version to increase leg room and make for a more comfortable ride. This can become real complicated as there are 180 different setups out there and each person has to make up there own mind on what they want. You can buy a complete kit from most major parts manufactures that comes with every single piece you need right out of the box. Or you can piece together your own setup part by part by your own preferences.
Regardless of manufacturer these are the basic components you will need:
A) Handle Bars
B) Bar Clamp / Upper Triple
C) Throttle Assembly (billet or plastic, may or may not have integrated front brake perch)
D) Front Brake Lever Perch (for right hand side of handle bar)
E) Longer Throttle & Front Brake Cables (the stock throttle cable will work with bars that are 7� rise and under depending on how tall your clamp is off of the forks)
F) Carburetor Cap (if using longer throttle cable)
G) New Grips for 7/8� bars
There are two main differences in clamp/bar setups to consider. And you need to decide before you buy as the bars & clamps are completely different. For a BMX setup the clamp will be narrow usually less then 3 inches wide where the bar actually fits into the clamp. For MX the clamp will be usually wider then 3 inches more around 4-5 inches in width where the bar actually firs into the clamp. Also the bars themselves will be very different.
A) BMX Bar Setup: Basically the bars are setup just like BMX bicycle bars. Usually taller and narrower type bars. Usually have a welded in cross support bar (as in its all one piece)
B) MX Bar Setup: Basically this is just like motocross bars on regular sized dirt bikes. The bars are usually not very tall off the clamp, and usually pretty wide from grip to grip. Most have a clamped on type removable cross bar support.
As mentioned before, and this applies to all parts for the 50 scene, there are tons of aftermarket parts manufacturers. It all comes down to your own personal taste on what you like. Some parts may be better then others. Most usually have at least a couple subtle physical if not mechanical differences, but it usually boils down to personal opinion. If something is just not a good part you can usually find info on it by searching for it, more then likely someone else has already had issues with it.
I’ve got my bars & my suspension, now what?
Go Ride It!! J Seriously though the next step is pretty much up to you.. Maybe now is a good time to figure out what you want to do with it. Stunt it, just ride it around on the streets, ride dirt & trails with it.. Mini-MX etc etc. The possibilities are only as limited as your wallet and your desire.
Quick Facts:
Engine: 49cc 3hp
Bore & stroke: 39.0mm x 41.4mm
Compression: 10.0:1
Transmission: Three speed auto clutch
Chain: #420
Front Sprocket: 14tooth
Rear Sprocket: 37tooth
Front Tire: 2.5� through 3� x10 (always exceptions)
Rear Tire: 2.5� through 3� x10 (always exceptions)
Bike Weight: 104lbs
Wheelbase: 36�
Ground Clearance: 5.8�
Bike Length: 51.4�
Bike Width: 23�
Fuel: Unleaded
Fuel Capacity: .8 gallons (including .2 reserve)
Oil: 10w40 4stroke
Oil Capacity: .6 quarts when changing .8 when disassembled
Spark Plug: NGK CR6HSA normal climate or NGK CR5HSA for cold climate
Plug Gap: .24-.28 inches (.60mm - .70mm)
Chain Free Play: 9/16� – 1� (15-25mm)
Used Service Length: 39.3 Inches MAX (997mm) (measured between a span of 77 pins)
Stock Carb Jet: #58
Additional Jets: #60 (Honda P/N: 99101-1870600)
#62 (Honda P/N: 99101-1870620)
#64 (Honda P/N: 99101-1870640)
Useful Links:
http://www.xtremeracing50s.com
http://www.pitposse.com
http://www.50ccracing.com
http://www.fast50s.com
http://www.sik50s.com
http://www.bbrmotorsports.com
http://www.fiveoracing.com
http://www.jokermachine.com
http://www.subwaymx.com/products/xr50graphics.html
http://www.chaparral-racing.com
http://www.rideltd.com
http://temeculamotorsports.com
http://www.chilli50s.com
http://www.minibikeoutlet.com/
http://www.dratv.com
http://holeshotm.home.att.net
http://www.waldochracing.com
http://www.precisionracing.net/pitbike/
http://www.pimped50s.com/
http://www.hondatrailbikes.com
http://www.ministothemax.com
http://www.danosbikeshop.com/
http://www.sonicjay.com/m50m/how-tos.htm
http://www.pitracermagazine.com/subscribe.htm
http://www.bakerbroz.com/baker/xrparts.htm
http://www.50stunt.com
Last edited by Fuscat; 12-07-2004 at 09:36 AM. Reason: updated info
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